Restaurant review: Although it’s had many previous incarnations (anyone remember Triple X?), this funky, laid-back east-side storefront with the sparkly naugahyde booths has evolved from its beginnings as a first-rate all-day breakfast spot into a low-key bistro featuring a well-executed Continental card created by Belgian-born owner/chef Johan Maes (Innocenti, Rosewood, Windsor Arms).
Best: at dinner, steak frites with haricots verts; duck confit with balsamic shallots, roasted potato and mesclun in French dressing; lean Angus beef stewed Flemish-style in beer with salad and frites; at lunch or brunch, five varieties of Belgian waffles topped with organic fruit, maple syrup and Chantilly cream, or with peameal bacon, smoked salmon, poached or scrambled eggs, and/or Hollandaise; super croque-monsieur, buttery grilled challah with layered ham and melted Gruyère, sauced with subtle Dijon-nipped béchamel and broiled till bubbly; Toast Champignon, a halved and toasted bagel tiered with grilled ’shrooms, bacon, onion and a runny poached egg, sided with rosti timbale and slightly pickled veggies over apple; to drink, hot house-made apple cider.