Barbecue

Phil's Original BBQ 838 College, at Ossington, 416-532-8161. This is as close as Hogtown gets to real Kansas City barbecue. Despite a confusing name change a few years back, Phil Nyman’s low-key beanery retains its nondescript digs; dig the grub – super slow-cooked, melt-in-the-mouth stuff with first-rate sides. After pigging out, follow the smoke, have a peek in the backyard and check out a smoker so large it cooks 250 pounds of meat at a time. Bonus: Phil’s take-home merch line of hot sauces, T-shirts and baseball caps. Best: superb slow-cooked Southern US-style barbecue unlike any found locally; gorgeous pulled pork, meaty moist spice-rubbed and/or sauced pork ribs, disintegrating beef brisket and grill-charred chicken served as combo platters or as substantial sandwiches sided with tremendous smoker-baked beans strewn with even more pork, cheesy Venezuelan cachapas pancakes, hush puppy cornmeal dumplings, classic slaw or potato salad kicked with horseradish. Complete meals for $30 per person ($20 lunch), including all taxes, tip and a premium beer. Average Main $12/$10.

Café

Morning Glory 457 King E, at Gilead Place, 416-703-4728. The unofficial offshoot of Aunties and Uncles offers a similar all-day breakfast slash soup ’n’ sandwich lineup but focuses more on the first meal of the day. Quality ingredients and first-class attention to detail make this diminutive diner the biggest thing to hit Corktown since the Great Fire of 1904. Bonus: read all about MG’s daily specials – as well as the off-the-wall ruminations of its staff – at www.morningglory.ca/news.html. Best: on pre-proofed house-baked breads, regular sandwiches like sweet tuna salad with tart green apple on ciabatta, or Bavarian-style Mennonite ham and sharp cheddar on chewy baguette, or one-offs such as curried chicken breast on Italian roll; Asian-inspired soups like spicy squash pur�e with crushed Szechuan peppercorns, or complex lentil with lime; whopping omelettes wrapped around havarti ’n’ leak or Brie paired with pear; more than competent cappuccino and retro raspberry crumble. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and a fruit nectar. Average Main $6.

The Rectory 102 Lakeshore, Ward's Island, 416-203-2152. Open very sporadically in the past, this lovely island getaway just off the south-shore boardwalk now keeps regular hours year round. Although its more-than-competent card of upscale sandwiches, designer salads and straightforward pastas might not be as well received on the mainland, the menu could consist of beans on toast and Spam fritters and most still would be wowed by the bucolic surroundings. Bonus: other than wind rustling through the towering pines overhead, silence. Warning: Reservations recommended in good weather. Best: to start, roasted zucchini and asparagus pur�e dolloped with lemony cr�me fra�che; grilled chicken panini dressed with oven-dried tomato and sided with a roasted corn and dried berry relish and mixed greens; grilled Ontario lamb chops with minty blueberry chutney and curried couscous; for dessert, island baker Louisa Milan’s famous chocolate cake. Complete meals for $45 per person ($30 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $15.

Vienna Home Bakery 626 Queen W, at Markham, 416-703-7278. Though not as well known as her superstar-chef sibling Greg, Gay Couillard has an equally stellar pedigree. A consummate baker and true Queen Street original, she’s been turning out posh breakfasts and super south-of-France quiche-and-salad lunch combos from this retro spot for 20 years. But it’s her fruit-tastic pies and cassis-soaked cakes that cause the most fuss. Most mornings, and especially for weekend brunch, you’ll find a group out front waiting for the authentic 40s luncheonette to open. Best: Liptauer cheese sandwich on house-baked whole wheat toast; seasonal egg dishes like smooth ricotta and caramelized onion quiche with beet ’n’ feta salad; vegan black bean burritos; for dessert, old-fashioned sky-high apple pie, sticky date pudding and cranberry apple crumble; weekend-only poached Eggs Bombay on house toast with curried coconut-milk hollandaise and home fries. Complete meals for $10, including all taxes, tip and a coffee. Average Main $6.

Easy 1645 Queen W, at Roncesvalles, 416-537-4893. Surrounded by junk shoppes, Peter Morrison's funky luncheonette at the far end of Queen has been a hit with Parkdale artsy types since it launched five years ago. The reason: a crowded, cacophonous storefront offering a reasonably priced card of all-day brunch/breakfast alongside substantial soup 'n' sandwich combos. Warning: weekend lineups! Best: Huevos Divorciados – two eggs topped with both red and green salsas, with cool refried black beans, chunky tomato-spiked guacamole, rosemary-tossed home fries and a toasted baguette with homemade ancho chili jam; a pair of soft-boiled eggs sided with toast soldiers 'n' salad or fries; signature sandwiches like grilled chicken breast, avocado, lettuce and tomato on organic, yeast-free spelt toast spread with chipotle mayo; retro Cobb salad with smoked turkey, hard-boiled egg, avocado, bacon and tomato in blue cheese dressing; to quaff, banana latte smoothies, cheap pints, plonk by the tumbler and jumbo Bloody Caesars. Complete meals for $17 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $9.

Mitzi's 100 Sorauren, at Pearson, 416-588-1234. So popular it's opened a sibling spot – Mitzi's Sister on west Queen West – this quirky kid-friendly storefront luncheonette on a tree-lined street in Parkdale has been serving formidable weekday lunches and weekend brunches for over a decade. Warning: lineups Saturday and Sunday. Best: at brunch, a constantly rotating card of eggy things like thick challah French toast dolloped with ripe strawberries and whipping cream, sided with herbed home fries and brunch garnish; perfectly poached eggs over wilted spinach chiffonade; maple syruped lemon poppyseed pancakes tossed with pecans; plain scrambled eggs for the rug rats; from the lunch card, apricot, date and pork meat loaf paired with warm potato salad and mesclun; pan-fried Newfoundland cod cakes splashed with red-pepper a�oli; lemon-basil-infused tuna salad sandwich on sourdough. Complete meals for $22 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of plonk. Average Main $10.

Saving Grace 907 Dundas W, at Bellwoods, 416-703-7368. When owner/chef Monica Miller's deceptively anonymous space – white-on-white walls, minimalist decor, 20 seats tops – opened five years ago, friends thought she was mad to open on this dreary inner-city strip. Now that Dundas West is the snazziest address around, they join the queue with the rest of us at her charming caf� for straightforward soups, salads and sandwiches priced to go easy on the pocketbook. Bonus: On the hi-fi, a brilliant mix tape featuring the likes of the Turtles, Go-Betweens and Bacharach-era Dionne Warwick. Double bonus: copies of hip UK music bible NME in the magazine rack (not for taking home). Best: devilishly textured corn cakes accompanied by chili-fired mango chutney and greens dressed with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette; weekday soups like Thai-style coconut cream thick with boneless breast, green beans, garlic chives, lemongrass and bird chilies; such sizable sandwiches as grilled chicken, peameal, avocado, tomato and lettuce on raisin bread toast spread with rosemary mayo; on the weekend, waffle du jour with real maple syrup, or very plain scrambled eggs with pumpernickle toast and oven-roasted home fries. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $7.

Cambodian

Khmer Thai 1018 St Clair W, at Appleton, 416-654-0609. Forget pad thai. This gaudy west-side storefront specializes in subtly spiced Cambodian dishes that combine influences from neighbouring Vietnam and Thailand as well as those further afield – India, Portugal, France. Bonus: the joint's previously uncomfortable food-court-style seating has been upgraded with regular tables and chairs! Best: substantial soups that verge on multi-portion stews, like hot and sour bamboo shoots, chicken and Asian eggplant in coral-hued coconut gravy, or Soup Delight, pineapple, tomato and Chinese celery in a clear aromatic broth detonated with whispers of salty prahok (fermented fish paste) and galangal; Khmer Pancake, a rice flour omelette stuffed with gently spiced ground chicken dunked into a complex sugary dip of chili, peanut and vinegar; tamarind-tanged Samlaw Khmer chicken with carrot, broccoli and bell pepper over jasmine rice; lassi-like green tea shakes. Complete meals for $20 per person ($12 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a Canada Dry. Average Main $8.

Caribbean

Island Thyme 872 Bathurst, at London, 416-538-9729. A laid-back Caribbean caf�, this bright casual space offers creative, reasonably priced takes on familiar island-style grub. No worries for those not in a hurry. What’s the rush when affable owner/chef Marcia Carby executes some of the best island-stylee grub in town. Bonus: just-introduced Sunday brunch! Best: slow-cooked young goat, so tender it falls from the fork, in subtle gravy; fabulous shoestring sweet-potato frites with mango hot sauce; chicken breast dhalpoori roti with potato and chickpea channa; home-style ox tail with lima beans; a vegetarian escovitch of marinated tofu and onions in spicy sugarcane vinaigrette, sided with okra, chickpea and cho-cho chayote curry; all mains served with nutty rice ’n’ peas and tangy citrus slaw; at brunch, callaloo quiche with watercress salad; tropical coconut scones with mango yogurt; spinach and codfish fritters; for dessert, pineapple upside-down cake or bread ’n’ butter pudding. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Ting. Average Main $8.

Soul Food 582 Lansdowne, at Paton, 647-438-9730. Caribbean cooking generally comes in two versions – industrial strength and nuclear meltdown. But this recently renovated and surprisingly sophisticated neighbourhood noshery tenders St. Lucia-style takes on island country cooking done with a subtlety not generally found in the genre. A relaxed family vibe, low-volume tunes and incredibly inexpensive grub make this laid-back spot positively jump. Bonus: $3 domestic beer! Best: like all dinners, moist dry-rubbed jerk chicken comes sided with rice ’n’ peas rich with coconut cream and butter, as well as delicate, creamy sweet slaw and caramelized fried plantain; slow-cooked and fall-from-the-bone tender beef short ribs down-home style; equally succulent curried goat on the bone; for the vegetarian, firm organic tofu or split pea patties with stir-fried jerked veggies; for dessert, homemade apple pie � la mode. Complete meals for $18 per person, including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $7.

Chinese

Xam Yu 339 Spadina, at Baldwin, 416-340-8603. Want proof of the popularity of chef Ken Fong’s card of Cantonese-style seafood? The entire Cantonese catalogue is translated into Vietnamese as well as English. Posher looking than most, but reasonably priced, this friendly family-run eatery attracts everyone from Susur Lee to the local cop on the beat. Best: to begin, jumbo broiled oysters with gingery scallions or salty black bean garnish; for the gang, steamed Vancouver crab over perfect shrimp fried rice wrapped in an aromatic lotus leaf; super two-for-one deep-fried lobster served two ways; bountiful Seafood Fried Egg Noodle with grilled shrimp, calamari and mussels; boneless chicken breast with fresh mango; a few veggie choices like guy choy with whole garlic; frog legs, too!. Complete meals for $30 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a Tsingtao. Average Main $12/$8.

Pearl Court 633 Gerrard E, at Broadview, 416-463-8778. This busy east-side eatery calls itself the best Chinese restaurant in Toronto and has a wall plastered with rave reviews from the 80s to prove it. It may have been true back then, but today it's a solid mid-tier Cantonese cantina with a second, more intriguing Southeast Asian-influenced menu. Best: from the latter, house Special Noodle, Swatow-style wide rice noodles slippery with sesame oil, strewn with sweet red pepper strips and zucchini, garnished with raw bean sprouts; Spicy Vietnamese Beef, large pieces of pounded steak paired with carrot threads, bell pepper and button mushrooms, kicked with Thai basil and dried red chili in sweet, gloopy gravy; be warned that Paper Wrapped Chicken is not a plateful of egg rolls but eight parchment-encased bundles of juicy deboned thigh in five-spice with coriander leaf, so just eat the contents; deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with finely ground pork; deep-fried soft shell crab ("as seen on Citytv!"). Complete meals for $30 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $10/$7.

Swatow 309 Spadina, at Dundas W, 416-977-0601. Steaming bowls of mein in soup rule at this no-nonsense noodle house named for the province in eastern China. Traditionally less fiery than the well-known Szechuan, dishes here are consistently well executed and generous, the menu extensive, and extended weekend hours accommodate peckish insomniacs and clubbers alike. Warning: lineups at peak hours, especially Friday and Saturday nights. Best: namesake Special Fried Noodle, wide rice noodles in a smoky syrupy sauce studded with shrimp and chicken, dressed with raw scallions and sprouts; Shrimp Dumpling Soup, six plump dumplings filled with shrimp, ginger, green onion and shredded black fungus in a clear broth with a fragrant sesame oil finish, paired with Chinese broccoli; Swatow Roasted Duck with Special Sauce, crackling duck breast off the bone cut into 12 sizable pieces served on a bed of canned pineapple chunks, sided with six inflated shrimp chips and thinned plum sauce; Fried Noodles with Beef and Black Bean Sauce, a heaping portion of vermicelli tossed with abundant slivers of tender beef, green pepper 'n' onion chunks in black bean sauce; incendiary chili sauce to garnish. Complete meals for $20 ($10 at lunch) per person, including all taxes and tip. Average Main $8.

Yung Sing Pastry 22 Baldwin, at McCaul, 416-979-2832. Although some crowd around its small stand-up counter just inside the door, when weather permits most of this perennially popular plant-strewn Baldwin Village Chinese bakery's customers make a beeline for the picnic tables on its makeshift curbside terrace out front. Bonus: weekend-only dim sum! Best: favourites since the 70s, baked buns stuffed with savouries like curried beef, sweet 'n' sticky barbecued pork or chicken with crunchy bamboo shoots; braised bean-curd rolls loaded with minced seafood; earnest vegetarian spring rolls and chow mein; rice-papered wraps filled with shredded shrimp, snow peas, scallions and Chinese celery dressed with chopped garlic; on the weekend, translucent har gow modestly brimming with sizable shrimp or tiny pinched pork siu mai knotted with red chili. Complete meals for $5 per person, including all taxes, tip and a bottled juice. Average Main $2.

Colombian

La Paisa 1520 St. Clair W, at Caledonia, 416-787-1330. In the market for some South American country-style home cookin' as well as a 96 Corolla with low mileage? You're in luck, because this modest and recently doubled-in-size Latin cantina that dishes up Colombian meat-'n'-potato-style home cooking in squeaky-clean digs happens to be located in a used car lot. Vegetarians beware: there's nothing for you here. Best: not-available-every-day Lechona Tomlimense, a grotesque pigskin bladder stuffed with delicious shredded pork, split peas, lentils, onion and yellow rice; Arepa con Carne Desmechada, an instant breakfast of shredded beef, scrambled egg, chopped tomato and green onion served on a thick corn tortilla; dinner-sized tamales wrapped in banana leaf, full of on-the-bone chicken, carrot and cornmeal mush; milky blueberry, tamarind or passion fruit shakes. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes and tip. Average Main $7.

Contemporary

93 Harbord 93 Harbord, at Robert, 416-922-5914. Toronto’s first intentionally anonymous restaurant, this stylish, understated Annex bo�te focuses on Palestinian chef Isam Kaisi’s contemporary spin on modern North African and Middle Eastern mainstays. Moderate prices, minimal attitude, zero scene and DJ-free – what more could a downtown sophisticate ask? Now, if someone could just come up with a catchy name for the joint! Bonus: recently introduced Sunday brunch. Best: slow-braised lamb chops on a bed of mashed parsnips, sided with apricots in almond sauce; seared organic chicken breast fragrant with sumac, paired with onion and pine-nut confit on roasted pita and designer greens; grilled calamari intensified with pear chutney and figgy Arabian coffee sauce; vegetarian bulgur-crusted kibbeh patties with pomegranate yogurt; at brunch, Fatima’s Choice, two perfectly poached eggs on za’atar-licked scones sided with pan-saut�ed dandelion greens and chive-infused hollandaise, served with roasted spuds and optional smoked salmon or spicy Moroccan Merguez sausage. Complete meals for $45 per person ($25 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of house red. Average Main $18/$10.

Bloom 2315 Bloor W, at Windermere, 416-767-1315. Bringing a touch of downtown chic to a decidedly conservative neck of the woods, this Focaccia offshoot features chef Sam Gassira’s post-post-fusion comfort food card in a cool, understated contemporary space. Bonus: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday $40 three-course prix fixe. Warning: even half-full, the room can get very noisy. Best: to start, house-made gnocchi with Little Neck clams in basil-rich beurre noisette, or seared foie gras and lobster tail doused with reduced pomegranate syrup; mains like superb veal tenderloin paired with shaved summer squash rosti and white asparagus cream; perfectly � point duck breast coupled with duck confit salad and dates poached in brandy; bison strip loin in a savoury chocolate jus, sided with Peaches ’n’ Cream corn fritters; at brunch, cheesy Garganelli noodles tossed with arugula and walnut pesto and crowned with grilled prawns; for dessert, saffron-scented cr�me br�l�e or chocolate almond torte over blueberry compote. Complete meals for $65 per person ($30 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $26/$14.

Czehoski 678 Queen West, at Tecumseth, 416-366-6787. Those easily frightened by creative cooking will dismiss their work as fusion confusion, but rising chef Nathan Isberg creates inventive plates despite their sometimes pretentious descriptions. “A crunchy, tender, bitter, salty, sweet, savory, cooked, raw and complex but very simple little salad of seasonal fruits and vegetables.” Indeed! And though the joint’s busy second-floor bar has all the allure of Squirly’s, its first-floor rear dining room is a virtual sanctuary of sophistication. Bonus: vegan substitutions for most mains! Best: to start, duck parfait, a pseudo sundae topped with frizzy fris�e over descending layers of lavender-infused rhubarb compote, warm shreds of grilled duck confit flecked with quinoa and poached apple gel�e; comfort-food-style gnocchi with deliciously fatty lamb shank and a garlicky gremolata of sour sorrel; “low-temperature steak in the memory of a grandfather,” Portuguese-style flank slow-cooked in Armagnac and peppery tobacco (!), sided with creamed corn (!!), fingerling potato and broccolini; stout-roasted chicken breast paired with blackened grits and lemony fava bean pur�e; for dessert, 20-Hour Apple glazed with caramel with pistachio brittle, whipped dolce con leche and Amarone-soaked sultanas. Complete meals for $75 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $24.

Eat Café 1321 Dundas W, at Dovercourt, 416-537-3000. Owner/chef Anila Dhanji’s west-side secret when it opened three years ago, this fashionable but minimally appointed spot – 30 seats, tops – offering soft-priced meals with adventurous pan-global style has grown into one of downtown’s best-received dining destinations. Bonus: most meaty mains have vegetarian substitutions. Best: to begin, clear vegetarian consomm� swimming with house-made wontons and scallions; poached red heirloom beets with ch�vre, fresh basil and Parmesan in pesto vinaigrette; small plates like barbecued Asian-spiced baby beef short ribs, or bubby-style blini with smoked salmon, capers and chive cream; roughage ahoy – Portuguese-inspired piri-piri-roasted Cornish game hen with tomato-spiced brown rice and grilled corn on the cob; Dhanji’s exemplary thin-crust pizza – one of the best around – tastefully dressed with mozzarella, grilled chicken and sun-dried tomato; optional sides of chunky ultra-crisp double-cooked cassava frites with red-pepper a�oli; at lunch, cookbook-correct French onion soup topped with molten Gruy�re; at brunch, eggs with Merguez sausage, rosemary-redolent home fries and challah toast; for dessert, otherworldly chocolate brioche bread pudding with silken cr�me anglaise. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of house red. Average Main $16/$8.

Edward Levesque's Kitchen 1290 Queen E, at Hastings, 416-465-3600. Though it looks small from the street, this converted diner opens to a larger but equally low-key, funky space in back. Think tarted up church basement, and we mean that in the complimentary sense. Owner/chef Levesque’s lineup has a retro feel, too, updating classic comfort food with a contemporary Asian spin. Warning: expect a queue for the ever-popular weekend brunch. Best: though the menu changes monthly, envisage dishes like cider-braised pork shoulder with smoked chilies and fresh rosemary, sided with sweet ’n’ sour root veg; Pommery-mustard-marinated pan-seared hanger steak with chive-infused mashed potatoes, asparagus and roasted shallots; tandoori-style Pacific salmon with curried leek, potato and cauliflower as well as lemon pickle and papadam; to start, warm herbed ch�vre and beet salad with walnuts and truffled balsamic vinaigrette; from the all-day lineup and especially at brunch, Manchego Frico, an eggless cheese omelette wrapped around herbed home fries and double-smoked pancetta, or Brie melted over multiple mushrooms on toasted brioche; daily lunch specials like parsnip ’n’ potato latkes and salmon cakes with avocado mash; for dessert, pavlova with fresh berries and Grand Marnier. Complete meals for $45 per person ($20 at lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of plonk. Average Main $20/$9.

George 111 Queen E, at Mutual, 416-863-6006. Formerly Susur Lee’s sous at Lotus, chef Lorenzo Loseto is deservedly Toronto’s hottest new chef, even if he has been around for more than 10 years. Working in a formally cool warehouse setting on the ground floor of an exclusive women’s club, Loseto has come up with a regional card that will delight adventurous diners of all sexes. Bonus: can’t afford the big bucks? Check out George’s remarkably cheap sibling caf�, Verity, next door. Warning: yes, these plates are small; those who equate fine dining with expanded waistlines might want to try the Old Spaghetti Factory instead. Best: chef’s five-course tasting menu of sorts, a series of visually stunning dishes that challenge the taste buds. like vanilla-cured duck breast with marinated asparagus and tart rhubarb slaw, or signature smoked beef tenderloin salad studded with caramelized salsify and tiny truffled pastina; warm octopus carpaccio colliding with shredded lobster in coriander reduction and basil leaf tempura; glorious don’t-miss ricotta gnocchi paired with shiitake in basil-infused beurre br�l� tossed with shaved toasted almonds; intermediary cheese course and simple lemon tart daubed with white-chocolate ganache to finish. Complete meals for $120 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $22.

Habitat World Cuisine 735 Queen W, at Tecumseth, 416-860-1551. Quixotic Greg Couillard returns to his old stomping grounds with an expanded repertoire of Caribbean-Southeast Asian fusion dishes that now includes Indian, Latin American and north African notes from co-chef David Ng’ang’a. His cooking has never been as inventive or assured. Throw in a beautifully appointed room and affable informed staff, and this Habitat could become a habit. Bonus: budget-conscious menu on the former fab Future Bakery patio! Best: from a constantly morphing seasonal menu, Whiskey Steak Saigon, broiled filet mignon in Bourbon, sided with crisp lotus root chips, saut�ed oyster ’n’ enoki ’shrooms and Szechuan-style long green beans; Thai Roasted Poussin, lemongrass-kissed and oven-baked spring chicken paired with fresh pineapple and a delish relish of roasted corn and black rice; garlicky barbecued organic beef burger; Ontario spring lamb chops glazed with dates and tamarind, coupled with coriander-garnished quinoa and vegetarian pilau; on the patio, Couillard’s acclaimed Jamaican Jump Up Soup with spice-rubbed jerk chicken, or vegan dosa masala – shades of visionary 80s Queen West culinary artiste Gordon W! – with coconut curried veggies and baked chapati. Complete meals for $60 per person ($30 on the patio), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $24/$14.

Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar 9 Church, at Front, 416-362-5586. One of Toronto’s top chefs triumphs again at this casual contemporary 50-seat bistro that offers mix ’n’ match tapas-style plates of upscale comfort food at surprisingly low prices. And, yes, that’s Kennedy in full view in the intimate room’s very open kitchen. Bonus: each dish has a suggested sommelier-selected by-the-glass wine pairing. Warning: Understandably, these are some of the hottest tables in town, and reservations are only accepted at lunch. At dinner, it’s first come, first served, so if there are no vacancies and the tiny bar is full, leave your cell number with the door, go around the corner for a drink and wait till you’re called. Ridiculous? Not for ten bucks a plate! Best: though the menu changes almost daily, anticipate signature dishes like Kennedy’s deservedly acclaimed Yukon Gold frites – now labelled fries but exactly the same as the originals – served in a logo-stamped brown paper cone on Jasper Conran china, sided with lemony mayo or topped with the chef’s own spicy merguez lamb sausage, shards of sharp pecorino cheese and poutine-gravy-like lamb jus; steamed Manila clams with leek and chorizo; vegan cauliflower and green bean curry; for dessert, caramel ch�vre cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Complete meals for $40 per person ($30 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $10.

Regal Heights Bistro 1077 St. Clair W, at Lauder, 416-651-2109. First-time solo chef Mark Zimmer – who’s worked his way up through the notable ranks at Centro, Jump and most recently Acqua – soars at this fairly priced pseudo-Parisian brasserie. Factor in engaging staff and generous pours and this local secret deserves an audience from across the GTA. Best: to commence, a chilled summery vichyssoise of creamy leek and potato festooned with braised leek and garlicky buttered croutons; to follow, Irish-stout-marinated flatiron steak served fajita-style, sided with roasted new potato, asparagus, oven-cured tomato and whisky-kicked veal reduction; perfectly timed grouper over deep-fried Pont Neuf potato, sided with haricot verts, carrot, escarole, red bell pepper julienne and sweet pea coulis; optional sides like the chef’s impressive 6-inch-tall tangle of chili-peppered yam frites that surpass Susur Lee’s debatably definitive fries at Lee, or saut�ed rapini ’n’ spinach in lemon and garlic; for brunch, a pair of pesto and white-truffle-oiled Shirred Eggs Helene baked with tomato, bacon and mushrooms ragout; to conclude, untraditional tiramisu with savoury ricotta replacing old-school mascarpone. Complete meals for $45 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $18/$9.

Susur 601 King W, at Portland, 416-603-2205. Susur Lee is one of the top chefs in the world today, and here’s proof. Forget the shabby chic of the wunderkind’s late Lotus – this cool, elegant room with suave service dishes up some of the most fabulous food that ever found its way to a plate. Occasionally, it borders on overkill, but what a spectacular way to go! For an even more spectacular sendoff, book your party of up to 24 into the joint’s private dining room, complete with neon-lit Zen garden. Needless to say, reservations are essential. Best: place yourself in the hands of a genius and order the $110-per-person seven-course tasting menu (the vegetarian version is a steal at a mere $75) featuring dishes of astounding artistry that send the senses reeling. Served backwards, mains like rack of lamb with two sauces (one black olive, the other artichoke and Stilton), sided with eggplant caviar and cheesy wild rice gnocchi, or seared foie gras accompanied by a spicy shortbread tart filled with duck confit, roasted Ontario apple and Japanese pickled plum precede smaller plates such as mahi-mahi satay paired with spinach-lemon confit and yellow Scotch Bonnet tomato sauce, the flavours so vivid, you won’t want to eat for a week. Or go � la carte with the likes of garlic-roasted lobster with pink Szechuan peppercorn lobster bisque, or caramelized black cod with carrot, ginger and dill sauces. Dessert? How’s about pear brioche bread pudding served warm with walnut brittle, wine-poached pear and apricot ice? Truly a once-in-a-lifetime culinary experience. Complete meals for $175 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $45.

Verveine 1097 Queen E, at Pape, 416-405-9906. Downtown comes to Leslieville in this mid-size bistro serving contemporary takes on classic European cuisine. A smart beige-on-beige room, smooth service and a proven kitchen make this local secret a deserved hit. Bonus: Monday-night $21 two-course and $25 three-course prix fixe. Best: updated takes on comfort food like rare, seared King Cole duck breast in mahogany glaze with toasted basmati and rapini; grilled 10-ounce Sterling Silver rib-eye daubed with house steak sauce and plated with fabulous house frites and buttery saut�ed spinach; red-wine-braised hunter-style rabbit with mushrooms and pearl onions, sided with roasted veggie frites; for the inevitable vegetarian in the party, three-cheese macaroni baked with broccoli, cauliflower and sweet red pepper; at brunch, Santa-Fe style toad-in-the-hole eggs in hollowed-out then grilled cornbread alongside sliced avocado and mild salsa. Complete meals for $50 per person ($22 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $23.

Universal Grill 1071 Shaw, at Dupont, 416-588-5928. Long-running luncheonette dishes out contemporary grub in nostalgic digs, a retrofitted soda fountain with swivel-able stools, comfy wooden booths, film noir venetian blinds. Bonus: every summer Friday, jerk chicken or ribs sided with yam frites, coleslaw and sufferin' succotash go for only $16! Best: vibrantly spiced barbecued Spitfire pork ribs with said magnificent yam frites; golden-crusted polenta with oyster mushrooms, roast tomato, capers and ch�vre; deluxe cream soups like saffron-scented cauliflower pur�e; tortilla spring rolls with sweet and hot mango dip; rosemary roast chicken with home-style gravy and seriously old-school scalloped potatoes; at brunch, latkes with salmon gravlox, capers and greens. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $16/$9.

Waterside Bistro 255 Queen's Quay E, at Sherbourne, 416-203-0470. Don't tell anyone, but there's a fabulous spot right on the lake that nobody knows about even though it's been there for years. Throw in free parking and three decks on the water's edge and those who fondly remember the similar but long-gone Sgana Caf� will make this their new summer hideout. Best: the panoramic patio view that takes in skyscrapers, idyllic Ward's Island and passing sailboats; although the reliable resto's kitchen never falters (seared ahi tuna salad ni�oise, a serviceable house burger with frites and mustard a�oli, Wanda's Pie In The Sky's fudge walnut brownies � la mode), it rarely rises above average. But who cares when the scenery is this spectacular?. Complete meals for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $12.

Cuban

Julie's 202 Dovercourt, at Argyle, 416-532-7397. Since the late 90s, this casually cool Cuban cantina on downtown's west side has been a well-kept secret among those looking for something a little different. A tree-shaded terrace sets the scene for late-night trysts, while inside, the room's former spell as a corner shop gives the vintage space a luncheonette feel. Bonus: a very private dining room out back. Best: grilled and then pressed marinated pork, ham and Swiss Cubano sandwiches; snacking tapas like three versions of the fried mashed-potato ball called Papa Rellena, one stuffed with lean ground beef, onion, tomato and green olives; purposefully bland Yuca con Mojo laced with lime and garlic; piquant tomato-sauced pork-sausage chorizos in red wine; subtly complex pork and beef hash (Picadillo de Mamita) with jalape�os, raisins, currants and almonds. Complete meals for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $10.

Diner

Boom Breakfast 808 College, at Ossington, 416-534-3447. With its all-day breakfast lineup and modern diner decor, this busy storefront resto has the buzz of a frantic Fran's, equal parts animated conversation, steaming espresso machine and the clink of china and cutlery. Regulars know to show up early for assured variations on bacon 'n' eggs and comfort-food-style lunch classics. Best: a remarkably meaty grilled-to-order pink-centred 5-ounce patty of ground round topped with melted cheddar and raw red onion rings, sided with herbed chunky fries; Boom Benny topped with smoked salmon and lemony hollandaise; cookbook-correct salade ni�oise with hard-boiled egg and crisp haricots verts; lassi-like smoothies with yogurt, honey, banana and blueberries. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and an espresso. Average Main $8.

East African

Ethiopian House 4 Irwin, at Yonge, 416-923-5438. Think you can handle the heat? This two-storey Ethiopian resto bar just off the Yonge Street drag offers fiery steak dishes that get some cooling relief from milder veggie pur�es. Servers dressed in embroidered traditional garb present dinner under a domed wicker mosobe while porous East African injera and fingers replace forks. Best: gin-soaked steak gored-gored seasoned with honey wine, clarified butter and aromatic spices; steak-tartare-like kitfo kicked with berbere pepper paste; relatively soothing chopped collard greens or sweet tomato atakelt wot – an almost Italian stew of potato, carrots and green beans; inexpensive vegetarian combination platters. Complete meals for $23 per person ($14 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $10/$8.

New Bilan 183 Dundas E, at Jarvis, 416-943-0330. Those who can get past this east African eatery's scary barred exterior and equally intimidating entryway will be rewarded with multiculti eats that twist Bangladeshi curries through Somali-style stews scented with Middle Eastern spice. In other words, truly Toronto food. Bonus: a recent resto makeover has greatly improved the look of the modest spot, but the dining room's unique functional bathroom sink has sadly been removed. Double bonus: huge portions. Warning: side orders of spaghetti turn out to be mushy, overcooked supermarket pasta with tinned tomato sauce. Best: delicious char-grilled Chicken Steak marinated in lemon, garlic, cardamom and vinegar, sided with ripped romaine leaf, pickled-pepper hot sauce, roasted potato 'n' onion, biryani rice strewn with plump raisins and a bowl of coconutty curried goat meat soup; tender on-the-bone roasted goat in tangy, bitter gravy with Muufo chickpea pancakes; extra-sugary Chicken Suqar, an African take on Subcontinental Rogan Josh, with chunks of tomato, onion and fresh coriander. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of watermelon Freshie. Average Main $6.

Sahara 134 Dundas E, at Dalhousie, 416-203-2593. This bare-bones Somali spot on a desolate downtown strip proves popular with both downtown cabbies and foodies on the cheap. Zero decor, but friendly folks and food that occasionally causes fireworks. Halal, too. Best: Chicken Mandy, an oven-roasted leg, thigh and partial breast kicked with garlic, lemon and slightly sour coriander and yellow food colouring (ahem), sided with buttery potato and carrot strips, innocuous iceberg salad, Middle Eastern-style spaghetti or basmati raisin pilaf, all doused with a house hot sauce best described as ranch dressing from hell (a compliment, by the way); lemon- and garlic-marinated goat shank Wasla; Foul, the breakfast-only addictive garlicky pur�e of fava beans, tomato and caramelized onion served with grilled crepe-like injera or a gridled chapati. Complete meals for $10 per person, including tax, tip and a can of Canada Dry. Average Main $8.

French

Batifole 744 Gerrard E, at Howland, 416-462-9965. Former Sassafraz chef Jean-Jacques Texier reinvents this once-doomed east-side bo�te as a first-rate shrine to all things francophone. Casually chic – dig that Carla Bruni CD on the sound system – and uniformly priced (starters $8, mains $16, sides $6, specials $20), this friendly spot manages to succeed where previous tenants failed and bailed Best: though the menu changes regularly, reckon on starters like velvety chilled vichyssoise dolloped with wild leek pesto, or shredded rabbit terrine garnished with ground red Szechuan peppercorns and sided with a mound of contrasting sour cornichons; mains such as Duck Confit in Calvados, superb filet of skate with capered lemon butter, or pan-fried Provimi veal liver with onions, deglazed with pricey Banyuls vinegar; Le Tartare de Cheval Bien Relev� – horse tartare; � la carte sides like spring asparagus in lemon butter or Proven�al-style ratatouille; at brunch, gossamer-thin buckwheat gallette stuffed with smoked salmon and daubed with awesome lemon sage butter. Complete meals for $50 per person ($25 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $18/$12.

Café Margaux 796 College, at Roxton, 416-588-7490. The former Caf� Societa easily shifts to a mid-priced bistro nouveau format with ex-Pastis sous Rob Briden in the kitchen. Combine a cozy 30-seat candlelit room, a gorgeous awning-covered curbside terrace and a casual summer menu and reservations become essential. Be sure to save room for the house’s spectacularly plated over-the-top desserts! Bonus: late-night menu from 9:30 pm. Best: nightly $27 three-course prix fixe that starts with supernal seasonal soups such as velvety wild mushroom pur�e or peppery organic greens in a nippy shallot vinaigrette, continues with a perfectly � point supr�me of chicken breast, grilled salmon or a beefy medallion of triple-A strip loin sauced with a port and wild mushroom reduction – both sided with first-rate frites and garlic a�oli – and finishes with an awesome terrine of double chocolate or cr�me br�l�e; from the � la carte menu, to start, house-made ravioli stuffed with foie gras terrine in an ice wine and rose petal sauce; to follow, oven-roasted ginger- and maple-glazed pork tenderloin in Madeira sauce, coupled with rosti and seasonal veg; from the patio lineup, escargots with saut�ed leek in Roquefort cream; grilled elk sausage with minty Cumberland sauce. Complete meals for $50 per person ($35 patio menu), including all taxes, tip and an $8 glass of wine; patio menu and prix fixe. Average Main $18/$12.

Clafouti 915 Queen W, at Strachan, 416-603-1935. Before sun-up each morning, ex-Parisian patissiers Boris Dosne and his brother Olivier Jensen-Reynaud start a fresh batch of what are arguably Toronto’s best croissants. No wonder there’s a lineup out front before the too-chic caf� has even opened. Cramped quarters and a few tiny tables guarantee a near-perpetual mob scene when there’s a total of three people in the joint. Beware the mid-morning stroller brigade. Best: the now-legendary house croissant, oversized and warm from the oven, available plain, almond-crusted or filled with chocolate or figs as well as stuffed and baked with asparagus and Swiss cheese or mushrooms and Asiago; superb croissant-wiches like mango ’n’ curried chicken, spectacular chicken breast salad in creamy house-made mayo, or smooth duck pistachio p�t� with red currant jelly; namesake Clafouti tarts such as wild berry, lychee in caramel, or sour cherry; a rotating roster of seasonal gourmet take-away like quartered roast chicken with curried sour cream; fresh bocconcini stack with fresh basil leaves and ripe Roma tomato; red-jacketed potato slaw with capers and slivered celery; comfort-food-style mac ’n’ cheese. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and an Illy coffee. Average Main $5.

La Palette 256 Augusta, at College, 416-929-4900. Forget the hype and hubbub of other bistros. Here’s a much-loved low-key bo�te serving no-nonsense caf� classics which just happens to be French. Add suave service and an former Le Select chef who’s got a deft touch with grilled meats and the sum is an unpretentious spot that defies food fads. Bonus: one of the largest imported beer selections in town! Best: superb 10-ounce triple-A Black Angus sirloin topped with sun-dried tomato and brandy butter, with hand-cut Yukon Gold frites; grilled wild boar wrapped in bacon with an oatmeal stout and black currant veal jus, sided with buttery roasted potato, beets, pearl onion and snap peas; Pyramide Vegetarien, roasted yellow pepper, charred hothouse tomato and marinated sun-dried tomato over avocado and black-eyed peas on potato rosti, sauced with a Jerusalem artichoke cream; for dedicated meat-eaters– and not listed on the menu so it doesn’t frighten the faint-hearted – the Quack And Track, roast duck breast and horse (!) tenderloin with rosemary roasted spuds; a contemporary take on Coquilles St. Jacques, crab dumplings on lime-ginger scallop ceviche; daily changing $28 three-course prix fixe specials; at brunch, smoked trout crepe with roasted garlic, tomato and ch�vre with fab frites. Complete meals for $50 per person ($22 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $24/$9.

Honey Kaffe and Eat Boutique 492 College, at Palmerston, 416-962-5111. Once the outrageously outr� Airport Lounge, this former futuristic storefront has been transformed into a French bistro with a decided twist. Against an over-the-top French provincial backdrop, this surprisingly relaxed spot offers cookbook-correct renditions of traditional French country cooking with cutting-edge confidence. Best: first up, buttery oyster and shiitake 'shrooms over baby spinach in a syrupy balsamic vinaigrette; commendable French onion soup; smaller mains like pastry-wrapped portobello mushroom with herbed tofu in vegetarian gravy; larger plates such as crisp-skinned duck confit paired with tangy sweet potato gratin; pan-seared bison sirloin in a red wine and maple syrup reduction; at brunch, French Canadian-style creton pork p�t� with cheddar, fruit chutney, pickled egg and baguette; garlicky pork sausage with maple-baked beans and buttery croissant. Complete meals for $40 per person ($22 lunches/brunches), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $14/$10.

Pony 488 College, at Palmerston, 416-923-7665. Back in the 80s, Jamie Kennedy and Michael Stadtlander operated this romantic francophone bo�te as Palmerston. Since then, it's evolved into an unpretentious spot with what might be be the best-kept foodie secret in town, its loss leader Monday to Thursday $22.95 three-course prix fixe ($25.95 Friday and Saturday). Bonus: septuagenarian server Andr� Malibert's charming Old World service. Double bonus: the loveliest backyard rooftop deck on the strip. Best: to start, a salad composed of bitter greens and marinated veg in sage and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette; orange and Stilton with walnut and pear in honeyed champagne emulsion; no-nonsense mains like lamb shank braised in Coca Cola (!) over Puys lentil cassoulet; roasted pork loin chop with drunken apricot compote, sided with Pommes Sarladaise, garlicky spuds fried in duck gizzard confit; to finish, what more trad than cappuccino-kicked dark and white chocolate tiramisu with sliced strawberries?. Complete meals for $45 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $18.

The Patio @ Crush 455 King W, at Spadina, 416-977-1234. Since it opened some three years ago, this west-side wine bar has gone from clamorous bistro du jour to sophisticated bo�te. Its lovely awning-covered courtyard terrace is an even better perch to soak up the spot's Parisian vibe. Bonus: extensive wine cellar. Best: chef Martin Warnick's assured take on steak frites, stringy hanger traded for superbly tender aged flatiron blade daubed with tarragon-scented beurre, sided with cookbook-correct frites freckled with chervil; bacon-wrapped duck confit with Puy lentils in veal jus; foie gras and tea-smoked duck terrine with toasted brioche; a very good – if runny – classic lemon tart garnished with marmalade thread and lavender leaf. Complete meals for $85 per person ($45 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $30/$15.

Greek

Zorba's 681 Danforth, at Pape, 416-406-1212. Old-school taverna with home-style Greek grub on the boulevard of broken plates. Ignore the printed menu and point at whatever you fancy from the steam table. Warning: scary offal-stuffed lamb heads. With teeth. Best: thick 'n' meaty grilled lamb ribs sided with fabulous baked lima beans and waxy oven-roasted spuds; super-moist 2-pound takeout chickens; lasagna-like pastitsio, penne over ground lamb topped with eggy b�chamel-sauced mash; Arni Fricasse, slow-braised lamb shank with artichoke hearts in dilled avgolemono lemon sauce; traditional feta-strewn Greek village salad. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $24.

Indian

Curry Twist 3034 Dundas W, at High Park, 416-769-5460. First-time restaurateurs score right out of the box with this charming Indian gem in the Junction. Soothing music, attentive service and startlingly tasty food make this the perfect dining equation. Warning: though insanely popular, Twist takes no reservations. Good luck! Best: tomato-rich butter chicken in assertive gravy; saag paneer made with pur�ed mustard greens and spinach; minced lamb kebabs skewered with both sweet bell and fiery jalapeño peppers; bread rolls – deep-fried sandwich loaf stuffed with coriander, potatoes ’n’ peas. Complete meals for $40 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $12.

Debu Saha's Biryani House 25 Wellesley E, at Yonge, 416-927-9340. Once a tiny take-away dishing up inexpensive lunchtime eats, this northern Indian spot moves into deluxe digs that match the richly sauced menu highlights. Yes, the previous joint’s ridiculously low prices have nearly doubled (goodbye, $5 thali), but chef Saha’s serious step up justifies the wallet damage. Best: Sultaani Chaap, four meaty lamb chops marinated in ginger, mint and lemon juice, then grilled, flamb�ed in rum and garnished with sweet sultanas and red pepper; tandoor-fired Calcutta Street-Style Chili Chicken in tomato peppercorn gravy; fiery Goan-style Seafood Perry Perry (a take on Portuguese piri-piri) with butterflied shrimp, calamari and mussels; veggie sides and mains like Lobia Aur Tomatar Salat (black-eyed peas and seeded tomato in a lemon-ginger vinaigrette) and Raspberry Matar (mildly cheesy paneer “raspberries” and garden peas in a rich, nutty sauce garnished with raisins and crisped onion threads). Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $12.

Sidhartha 1450 Gerrard E, at Craven, 416-465-4095. Considering Little India's low-rent standards, this charming north Indian eatery is easily the budget dining strip's classiest eatery. Most dig into the moderately spiced all-you-can-eat $8.99 lunch/$10.99 dinner buffet, but those who venture into the � la carte lineup will discover a few fiery gems. Bonus: a just-launched second uptown location – 30 Eglinton East, at Holly, 416-485-5552. Best: Chicken Bolcha, large chunks of yogurt-marinaded boneless tandoori chicken in an almost Italian tomato sauce spiked with chilies and slightly soured with vinegar; Mataar and Paneer Pulao, cubes of deep-fried paneer – yes, deep-fried cheese! – on a bed of white basmati studded with garden peas; Bhindi Do Piazza, al dente okra fingers in turmeric-tanged sauce; assertively spiced lamb vindaloo with potato in sweet curried gravy; lightly oiled and blistered naan straight from the tandoor. Complete meals for $25 per person ($17 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $9.

Indian Vegetarian

Narula's 1438A Gerrard E, at Ashdale, 416-466-0434. Some may be put off by the way this bare-bones Indian vegetarian kitchen looks, but the inexpensive spice-intensive – salty, sweet, fiery, sour – snacks dished up here cause the palate to detonate in myriad directions. And everything – except drinks – is 2 bucks on Tuesday! Best: Bhel Poori, spice-drenched basmati mined with chilies, firm boiled potatoes, crunchy chickpeas, lentils and coriander leaves; Sev Poori, milky yogurt dusted with cayenne, and shredded crispy rice noodles kicked with minty relish; Dahi Vada, lentil-flour doughnuts in cool yogurt or fiery sambar; daily thali with veggie subzi – say, eggplant, zucchini, lentil dhal or cheesy matar paneer – and basmati, roti and papadam. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and a large tip. Average Main $4.

Udupi Palace 1460 Gerrard E, at Rhodes, 416-405-8189. Inexpensive south-Indian-style vegetarian grub in possibly the city's most squeaky-clean eatery. Spicing is decidedly meek to appeal to all ages at this U.S. franchise, so bring the kids and the grandparents. Best: holey-as-Swiss-cheese special Rava Masala Dosa laced with green chilies, topped with mild potato 'n' onion masala, soupy sambar loaded with veggies and a cautious kick of coconut and coriander chutneys; chili pakoras – sweet, battered and deep-fried banana peppers stuffed with potatoes and peas; smoky chickpea chana served with grilled chapati and basmati rice; tissue-thin crisp paper dosa with the usual sides; sweet carrot halwa pur�ed pudding for dessert; sugary mango lassi to sip. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes and tip. Average Main $7.

Italian

Marcello's 1163 St. Clair W, at Dufferin, 416-656-6159. Although it’s not the trendiest place in town, how this outstanding old-school trat continues to fly under some foodies’ radar mystifies. Substantial salads, simple yet satisfying grills, customized pasta and possibly the best wood-burning, thin-crust pizza in town, all at shockingly reasonable prices in a family-friendly room built for comfort, make this boisterous bistro a true find. Best: Pizza #17, the Mimmo, a 12-inch thin-crust beauty layered with roasted garlic, Asiago, Gorgonzola, mozzarella and strands of spinach; Fazzoletto, a pizza-crust turnover stuffed with goat cheese, ricotta, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes on a bed of bitter greens; Linguine con Gamberi, butterflied and grilled shrimp in a tomato cream over noodles, tossed with charred leeks and sun-dried tomatoes; rich chicken-broth-based Stracciatella Fiorentina strewn with tomato and spinach; Insalata Marcello’s balsamic-dressed mesclun mixed with roasted red pepper, artichoke hearts and Asiago shavings. Complete meals for $30 per person ($20 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of vino. Average Main $10.

The Big Ragu 1338 Lansdowne, at St. Clair W, 416-654-7248. This smallish, old-school trat specializes in what owner/chef Carmine "The Big Ragu" Accogli refers to as grandma dishes, central and southern Italian favourites cooked with Old World skill. Bonus: every Thursday is house-made gnocchi night! Warning: ask the price of the nightly meat and fish specials, since they're often twice as expensive as the dishes on the printed card. Best: complimentary baskets of house-baked focaccia dunked in quality olive oil and balsamic; minimally appointed but maximum-flavoured pizzas like the Margherita with superb house tomato sauce, lotsa mozza and a fresh basil leaf or two; mains such as meaty pan-seared lamb chops in a red wine reduction accented with fresh rosemary and sage, sided with roasted russets; ear-shaped orrechietti with bitter rapini, blackened almonds and the slightest suggestion of garlic and anchovy; at brunch, the Spaghetti Western, a clever frittata of pasta, peameal and grated Parmesan. Complete Complete meals for $50 per person (brunch $20), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. . Average Main $20/$10.

Japanese

Izakaya 69 Front E, at Church, 416-703-8658. High-concept Westernized Japanese fast food for those afraid of sushi and sashimi. In their place, big bowls of noodle soup topped with quality ingredients and a short card of East-meets-West tapas. Noisy and chaotic when crowded, and hard backless benches and communal seating with strangers won't make you want to hang around. Bonus: unisex washroom. Best: moderately spicy Chili Chicken Ramen brimming with Sapporo-style noodles, red Anaheim pepper and Cumbrae free-range chicken, topped with raw sprouts and coriander; Tokyo Beef Ramen swimming in meaty miso with medium-rare sirloin, scallions and minty shiso leaf; Kinoko Udon, a surprisingly meaty vegetarian broth topped with sliced raw 'shrooms that cook while you slurp; Duck Gyoza, garlicky potstickers filled with shredded bird and Chinese veggies; Seaweed Salad, rubbery threads of wakame, dulse, kombu and hijiki mixed with sesame seeds and pickled baby lotus root in rice wine vinaigrette over buttery Boston lettuce. Complete meals for $25 per person, including all taxes, tip and an organic lager. Average Main $10.

Sakawaya 867 Danforth, at Jones, 416-778-6894. The fact that it bills itself as a bistro will probably annoy francophones, but this surprisingly classy east-side Japanese eatery offers much more than the usual sushi, sashimi and tempura lineup found elsewhere. Bonus: owner/chef Koki Oguchi's masterful knife technique. Best: tapas-style starters and mains such as kushiyaki, skewered and charcoal-grilled bite-size snacks like buttery scallops wrapped in bacon, tiny creamy quail eggs, sweet gingko nuts or sugary corn on the cob; Gomuko Hiyashi, cold chunky udon noodles in sweet broth strewn with thinly sliced chicken, faux crab, seaweed and shrimp tempura; Korean kimchi layered with marinated octopus; sirloin sashimi with hot sesame sauce. Complete meals for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of sake. Average Main $12.

Laotian

Ban Vanipha 638 Dundas W, at Denison, 416-340-0491. Almost doubled in size from its original location around the corner, this long-time home-style Thai and Laotian eatery is on the main drag just west of Chinatown. Pricier than similar spots, it delivers superior ingredients and style. Best: Mee Grob, addictive deep-fried rice vermicelli tossed with chicken, shrimp and toasted coconut in a tart tamarind-lime dressing; Gai Hoey Bai Toey, garlic-marinated grilled chicken breast wrapped in pandan-leaf ribbons and sauced with soy, sesame oil and whiskey (!); Nham Vientiane, a salad of crispy spiced deep-fried coconut rice mixed with sour pork, coriander and mint; Larb Hed, minced mushrooms, tofu, Thai chilies and rice powder in lime dressing; custardy crustless coconut pie riddled with pumpkin. Complete meals for $35 per person ($20 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $12/$8.

Latin American

Jumbo Empanadas 245 Augusta, at Baldwin, 416-977-0056. When Irene Morales first dished out her authentic Chilean street food 10 years ago, she did so from a vending cart located on a sidewalk in Kensington Market. Now that she’s moved indoors to modest digs a block away complete with awning-covered curbside patio, the savvy cook is Toronto’s undisputed queen of the Latin American turnover. Want proof? She supplies several local upmarket cantinas that simply heat them up and sell them at nearly twice the price. Best: two-fisted empanadas overstuffed with either chicken (with red pepper, black olives and hard-boiled egg), beef (as above but with the addition of raisins) or veggies (spinach, red pepper, mushroom, onion and basil pesto); vegetarian tamale-esque humitas filled with mashed corn and onion, wrapped and tied with corn husk; take-home specialties like the house’s relish-like homemade hot sauce and caramelized sugar-crusted pastel de choco, fabulously sweet upside-down pie of cornmeal mush thick with chunked beef, chicken, black olives, hard-boiled egg and raisins. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $6.

Mauritian

Blue Bay Café 2243 Dundas W, at Roncesvalles, 416-533-8838. An anonymous west-side storefront, this Mauritian restaurant serves spice-powered dishes that combine elements of Indian, Thai, French, Cajun and African cooking. Call it crossroads cuisine. Figure in a low-fat, low-carb lineup and extremely reasonable prices and it's easy to understand Blue Bay's long-running success. Warning: call ahead to make sure it's open. Best: dense pan-saut�ed hake (a cod cousin) in garlicky ginger sauce; tender baby octopus tendrils in fiery curry; daube of chicken, a boozy spice-rich tomato stew thick with dark chicken meat and potato; Touffe Legume, mixed Asian veggies spiked with tiny red Thai chilies; Mine Frire, a hot and cold collision of spaghetti-like noodles and crunchy napa cabbage. Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine or an imported beer. Average Main $12.

Mediterranean

Bellevue Diner 61 Bellevue, at Nassau, 416-597-6912. With the wind whispering through the trees and the Reverend Al Green testifying softly on the CD player, is there a lovelier brunch spot downtown? A former working-class dive, it's now an attitude-free, low-profile eatery serving very reasonably priced Mediterranean-inspired grub. Bonus: just-introduced $22.50 prix fixe every night. Best: seasonal specials like roast leg of New Zealand lamb with black olive butter sauce, new potatoes and market veggies; Southern-style chicken breast crusted with pecans, in buttery bourbon jus; first-rate lamburger with greens, super house frites and marjoram-scented a�oli; at brunch, Eggs Natasha with tequila-cured salmon, home fries and designer mesclun, or a stack of buttery flapjacks slathered with whipped cream and strawberry coulis. Complete meals for $45 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $18/$8.

Musa 847 Dundas W, at Euclid, 416-368-8484. A low-key hipster haunt on the too-cool stretch of Dundas, this eastern Mediterranean-style resto offers contemporary takes on casual Greek and Turkish mezes and mains in a sunny, al fresco setting. Bonus: low markup house plonk by the glass. Best: just-like Mom's moussaka with b�chamel sauce; 10-ounce strip loin with first-rate fries and garlicky mayo; Keftades – ground beef falafel patties zapped with cumin and onion, stuffed into a spectacular spelt pita piled with cucumber, tomato and romaine, sauced with creamy Dijon and sided with first-rate hand-cut fries; seared and sliced free-range chicken in the same pita with red chilies, jalape�o, piquant kefalotiri cheese, saut�ed onions and arugula; Cajun calamari with tomato-chipotle sauce; dandelion greens and rapini saut�ed in olive oil and garlic and mixed with navy beans in a lemony vinaigrette; at weekend brunch, a rotating roster of omelette specials like asparagus with Swiss, or smoked salmon with arugula, coupled with roasted spuds and Cajun home fries. Complete meals for $35 per person ($20 lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $14/$9.

Mexican

El Jacalito 1500 Royal York, at Lawrence, 416-244-4447. Transposed Mexican taquer�a moves into a Sopranos-style banquet hall without losing the spectacular grub that made its name. New addition: a $20 all-you-can-eat buffet Saturday night, complete with riveting after-dinner performances by folkloric dance troupe Tonatiuh and wise-guy mariachi quartet Viva Mexico. Sounds cheesy, but there’s no cultural slumming here. Great food, a we’re-all-family vibe and wonderful music make for an exceptional evening of fun. Remember fun? Reservations essential for ringside seats. Best: superb banana-leaf-wrapped pork or chicken Cochinita Pibil, tender slow-cooked shredded meat doused in tangy achiote paste and sour orange; deeply rich refried turtle beans crumbled with queso fresco; Pico de Gallo, a salad of shredded iceberg, ripe tomato, red onion and coriander in a lime vinaigrette; $6.95 Mexican breakfast specials like Huevos Rancheros sided with slow-burn big-finish Tomorrow sauce; to drink, the Jarrito Loco (grapefruit and tequila served in a clay jar) and the Chelada, a beer margarita. Complete meals for $40 per person ($30 with a reservation), including all taxes, tip and a hallucinogenic cocktail.

El Sol 1448 Danforth, at Monarch Park, 416-405-8074. Decked out in folk art, this family-run cantina is easily the best in town serving way-south-of-the-border fare. Warm service, casual digs and made-to-order, authentic northern Mexican grub push El Sol several notches above its competitors. Warning: because the kitchen cooks from scratch, service can be snail-paced. Best: 65-spice Pollo en Mole, chicken breast in an ethereal hot-chili-and-dark-chocolate sauce, sided with roasted tomato rice and flavour-intense, slow-cooked refried beans; egg-battered Chile Relleno, a huge sweet red pepper stuffed with ground beef, green olives, cubed potato and raisins in pulpy tomato sauce; super chili-spiked salsa. Complete meals for $35 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $13.

Middle Eastern

Mezzetta 681 St. Clair W, at Christie, 416-658-5687. Specializing in the Middle Eastern tapas known as mezzes, this once low-key take-away has evolved since it opened in the early 90s into a casual hacienda decked out with showbiz memorabilia. Bonus: live jazz Wednesdays from 9 pm. Double bonus: Monday dinner, every second dish is a buck (with a limit of 15), and Tuesday dinner they’re a toonie; weekdays at lunchtime all vegetarian items are $2. Warning: as the sign on the wall under a map of the Mediterranean Sea advises, “Refrain from touching the map!” Best: from the card of more than 40 mezzes, the house Evergreen Salad of romaine, spinach, coriander, parsley and walnuts in light vinegary vinaigrette; somewhat sour Mezziki – cubed cuke in yogurt, recalling Greek tzatziki and Indian raita; garlicky Egyptian Mush, an olive-oily pur�e of garlicky tomato, eggplant and green pepper suggesting Italy and Thailand; menu-described “exotic green beans” turn out to be crinkly Chinese long beans dusted with dill in lemon dressing; to finish, Cr�me Bavaria, vanilla custard laced with Triple Sec, topped with toasted almonds and chocolate syrup. . Complete meals for $25 per person (lunch $12), including all taxes, tip and a domestic lager. Average Main $4/$3.

Pakistani

King Palace 105 Sherbourne, at Richmond, 416-504-8188. Neither royal nor palatial, this Pakistani take-away offers cabbies and club kids filling and fiery curries from modest digs in a downtown gas station. Ignore the signs advertising kebab ’n’ pop specials and point and take your chances with the extensive but unnamed East Indian comfort-food curries and aromatic stews on the steam table, some just weird – unidentified hoof in bitter, gelatinous gravy? – but much of it downright delish. Bonus: open seven days a week till 5 am! Best: a near-tagine of gorgeous on-the-bone lamb with chickpeas in spice-spiked tomato sauce; roti-style bones-and-all lamb in curried cream; cauliflower and potato garnished with fresh coriander stalks and mild green chili pods; al dente yellow lentils fired with green chili, or bitter kale with yellow split peas; moist basmati biryani rice flecked with curry leaf; for dessert, smooth rice pudding in sweet condensed milk, an ambrosial ambrosia dusted with crushed green pistachios. . Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and $1 bottled water. Average Main $5.

Pan Asian

Red Tea Box 696 Queen W, at Euclid, 416-203-8882. Featured in French fashion magazines before it had even opened, this chic bakeshop’s tiny rear terrace and coach house are quite possibly Toronto’s ultimate al fresco dining experience. Luxuriate under a picture-perfect pear tree while supping sensational pan-Asian bento boxes and spectacular Pacific Rim sandwich ’n’ salad combos. Breathtaking desserts as well as pricey cups of estate teas help make this downtown’s most romantic rendezvous. Warning: reservations are not taken, so if you manage to snag one of the three or so mismatched French-country tables in the coach house, consider yourselves very lucky indeed. Best: lacquered bento boxes laden with exotica like honey-roasted chicken with rhubarb and spinach, or seared Swiss chard with pumpkin and red lentil stew, sided with citrusy shrimp on soba noodles, enoki salad dressed with yuzu and kumquat, and roasted baby Yukon, fingerling and Peruvian blue potatoes tossed with lavender, rosemary and thyme; superb sandwiches such as Indo-spiced grilled chicken breast with onion marmalade on raisin-studded sour dough, or gingery Asian pulled pork on ciabatta, paired with lime-laced green papaya-carrot slaw; seasonable soups like white bean with olive pistou; for the sweet tooth, awesome house-baked sour cherry chocolate brownies or orange maple pumpkin tarts tossed with pepito brittle; to brew, 30 biodynamic and organic teas. Complete lunches for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and tea. Average Main $10.

East! 240 Queen W, at John, 416-351-3278. The former Beverley Tavern gets transformed into an elegant Asian-inspired supper club. Sharing most of the Southeast Asian lineup of its sibling Spring Rolls, it also features a new all-day dim sum card as well as hawker-style street eats. Warning: since reservations are only accepted for dinner, come early or join the queue almost any time else. Best: from the dim sum lineup, buttery grilled baby squid in garlic-chili marinade, Malaysian-style eggplant with spinach in spicy sambal, and lemongrass-scented chicken wings over designer mesclun; palatable pad thai three ways – ketchup-pink Famous, yellow Curry and alarmingly red and accurately handled Unique; first-rate General Tao Chicken, elsewhere often a serving of deep-fried gristle, here tender tempura-like chunks of chicken breast coupled with broccoli, sweet red pepper and whole chili pods; to finish, soothing mango cr�me br�l�e. Complete meals for $22 per person (lunches $15), including all taxes, tip and a lager. Average Main $10.

Persian

The Pomegranate 420 College, at Bathurst, 416-921-7557. This invitingly unpretentious eatery delivers reasonably priced Persian specialties in a relaxed setting. Dishes range from sharable tapas to deluxe mains accessorized with sweet and fruity garnishes. Bonus: hookahs! Best: Fesenjaan, a delicious stew available three ways – with portobello mushroom, chicken or lamb shank – rich with ground walnuts and pomegranate syrup, served over saffron-scented basmati rice; Adas Polo, a riot of rosewater-scented rice strewn with slivered almonds, al dente lentils, dates and sultanas, sided with barberries and subtly spiced slow-braised lamb shank topped with crispy onion threads; focaccia-style lavash flatbread spread with smoky Mirza Gasemi eggplant sweetened with garlicky tomato and onion; a near-tapenade of nippy Zeitoon Paravardeh, aged green olives laced with syrupy pomegranate molasses; summery specials like Aab doogh Khiar, an ice cube-chilled soup of fresh dill, cucumber, walnuts, raisins and red onion in yogurt; Khoresh-e rivaas, a green-herbed lamb stew redolent of tart rhubarb. Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average Main $10.

Pizza

Terroni 720 Queen W, 416-504-0320. Although Toronto’s favourite nu-skool pizzeria slash Italian grocery store has recently doubled in size since it annexed the storefront next door, this upscale ‘za ’n’ panini joint still dishes out what might be Toronto’s best pizza. The famed Queen West pies are also available at two additional outlets – one deep downtown, the other way uptown. Warning: Terroni doesn’t do slices. Best: ultra-thin-crust pizzas artfully decorated with minimal yet full-strength sauce and cheese and maximum flavour from quality toppings like fresh basil, spicy Calabrese sausage, grilled peppers and arugula; the Ciccio, a summery folded pizza stuffed with both sun-dried and fresh tomato, bocconcini and arugula; old-school pastas like orecchiette with anchovy and extra-virgin olive oil or house-made potato gnocchi in tomato sauce and fresh ricotta. Other locations: 106 Victoria, at Queen East, 416-955-0258; 1 Balmoral, at Yonge, 416-925-4020. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $14.

Portuguese

Piri-Piri Grill House 1444 Dupont, at Symington, 416-536-5100. Once a favourite on College, this authentic Portuguese grill house has found new casual and tastefully decorated digs at the edge of the Junction. Bonus: a year-round tented patio decked out with tables dressed with white tablecloths and cheerful yellow and blue napkins. Best: eponymous Piri-Piri Chicken, a crispy half-bird liberally sea-salted and slathered with a sauce of hot chili paste and oil, paired with excellent fries and rice; generously portioned grilled squid, flame-kissed and doused in white wine, melted butter and garlic, sided with boiled potato, broccoli, carrot and cauliflower; quality baguette for sopping duty. Complete meals for $20 per person ($15 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a Portuguese beer. Average Main $10/$8.

Amadeu's 184 Augusta, at Denison Square, 416-591-1245. Despite its seemingly endless luxe makeover, this Kensington Market local remains a restaurant of two halves – one a traditional coastal Portuguese seafood eatery with formal, family-friendly decor suitable for a christening, the other a dodgy dive complete with cheap suds, top-notch and mythically rowdy clientele (Keith Whittaker RIP). Warning: regardless of where they sit, those on a low-sodium diet should ask that their food be unsalted; otherwise, a heavy, if classic, hand runs amok with the salt shaker. Best: although steaks are offered (the surf 'n' turf-ish House, an 8-ounce New York strip straddled by a single jumbo shrimp is typical of the card), fish is the story here: stellar samplings for two, the Amadeu's Revolution and a Portuguese take on paella; to start, velvety Caldo Verde soup with rustic cornbread; none-more-authentic grilled sardines with boiled spud 'n' collard greens. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at lunch, $15 in the pub), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average Main $22/$10/$8.

Sri Lankan

Hopper Hut 880 Ellesmere, unit 217, at Kennedy, 416-299-4311. As the name implies, this home-style Sri Lankan spot specializes in hoppers, the bowl-sized crepes served with both fiery and savoury curries. While there's a busy takeout counter, some dine in the family-friendly space out back. Best: lampries, the local take on Dutch Indonesian rijsttafel rice tables, here augmented with milky hodhi gravy, sweet eggplant curry, incendiary raw onion sambal and sensational legs-'n'-all crab curry in searing hot coconut sauce; Hopper Combo #2, a quartet of thin, cupped pancakes with the gentle heat of coconut Pol Sambal and mincemeat-like onion Seeni Sambal; fabulous three-for-a-dollar crisp and golden samosas straight from the fryer, stuffed with curried potato and peas; to finish, syrup-soaked Vatilappam sponge cake and smooth Pineapple Pluff custard. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Sri Lankan pop. Average Main $7.

Indies 4 Amelia, at Parliament, 416-961-9748. Extremely modest St. Jamestown Sri Lankan joint offers fiery fare to eat in and take out. Zero decor – travel posters, plastic plants – compensated by friendly folks and rock-bottom prices. Bonus: $5 lunch thali! Best: the fiery Devil, a devilishly spiced stir-fry of either chicken, beef or lamb incorporating whole tomato, caramelized onion and sweet bell pepper in red chili-stoked coconut gravy over basmati or roti; Kothu Roti, shredded flatbread scrambled with egg, tail-on shrimp and incendiary unseeded raw green chilies; Stringhopper Combo, sour rice pancakes sided with turmeric-tinted spuds and addictive coconut-chili sambal; for dessert, subcontinental cr�me caramel. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and an Asian lager. Average Main $9.

Rashnaa Restaurant 307 Wellesley E, at Parliament, 416-929-2099. Though its spicy menu boasts "authenticity is our word," this venerable South Indian and Sri Lankan cantina on the edge of St. James Town lives up to its hype. Combine huge portions, a casual atmosphere and delicate flavours and it's no wonder this out-of-the-way Cabbagetown cottage is one of downtown's favourite Subcontinental destinations. Best: to start, the mixed appetizer platter – crisp, house-made papadum, unusually flaky vegetarian samosa filled with a highly charged mix of potato, carrot and garden peas and an unfortunately bland lentil fritter stuffed with tuna and potato, as well as fabulous pancake roll, breaded crepes wrapped around tender beef masala; fiery mains like Kottu Rotty – Sri Lankan specialty of chopped naan saut�ed with onion, bell pepper and egg, plus a choice of chicken, beef, mutton or squid; Vegetable Delight, basmati rice lightly saut�ed in ghee with three mild coconut-perfumed curries – eggplant/ breadfruit, cashew/ green pea, potato – sided with smoky carrot achar; hellishly hot Beef Devil – strips of boneless steak saut�ed in onion, tomato and jalape�o in sweet chili sauce. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Tiger lager. Average Main $8.

Thai

Vicky's Fish & Chips / Sue's Thai Food 414 Roncesvalles, at Howard Park, 416-531-8822. At this plain-Jane Parkdale diner with a split personality, ignore Vicky (good fish, terrible chips) and concentrate on Sue. A former Salad King cook, she may not dish up the best Thai in town, but she's certainly owner of the the cheapest card. Despite the low prices, shrimp dishes come with butterflied jumbo shrimp – not a lot of them but better than the tiny frozen ones offered most elsewhere. And the vegetarian versions are even more inexpensive! Bonus: everything's MSG-free. Double bonus: who knew there was a downright luxurious deck lurking in Vicky's backyard? Best: better-than-most pad thai laced with coconut milk garnished with deep-fried tofu, spring onion and crushed peanuts; green curry with sweet pepper, onion and Thai basil over jasmine rice; tom yum soup – lemongrass-scented broth brimming with seeded plum tomato, button 'shrooms and coriander leaf; cashew shrimp with red peppers, tart green apple and onions; Icelandic cod with industrial coleslaw (hold the fries). Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes and tip. Average Main $6.

Vegetarian

Café 668 668 Dundas W, at Denison, 416-703-0668. Named NOW’s 2002 best new restaurant, this modestly decorated 20-seat storefront continues to deliver innovative pan-Asian vegetarian fare that’s not only healthful but damned tasty, too. Self-taught chef Ngoc Lam draws on her Southeast Asian heritage for a unique spin on Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese vegetarian cuisine that travels far beyond its Buddhist roots, especially when she gooses the garlic. And we doubt there’s a more hospitable front-of-house than Lam’s partner, Hon Quach, whose gentle service helps make this casual caf� one of the most genuine kitchens around. Best: to start, 668 Salad with shredded deep-fried tofu, cucumber, carrot, peppers and grilled cashews, or cold rice-paper-wrapped Summer Rolls stuffed with slivers of deep-fried tofu, carrot, cellophane noodles, wood-ear and Thai basil; king mushrooms with faux sirloin over stir-fried mixed peppers, snow peas and baby corn in satay; Spicy Tofu – large cubes of silky-centred deep-fried tofu in a chili-spiked coconut cream thick with julienned carrots, bell peppers and snow peas; Vegetarian Curry with tofu “pork,” carrots, chewy Chinese mushrooms, cauliflower and napa cabbage in tasty yellow gravy; goofy but good deep-fried ’shrooms in batter, dunked in sweet ’n’ spicy lemongrass dip; for dessert, deep-fried bananas in yummy coconut cream. Complete meals for $15 ($10 at lunch) per person, including all taxes, tip and a ginger beer. Average Main $9.

Fressen 478 Queen W, at Denison, 416-504-5127. Though its Red Cat Trading haute chinoiserie d�cor remains, this verging-on-luxurious vegetarian kitchen has improved significantly since its debut. As his lineup of self-described “herbivorous cuisine” changes daily due to market availability, chef Stephen Gardner’s often innovative vegetarian vittles are always at least one-third organic. Bonus: everything’s made from scratch! Warning: everything’s made from scratch! Best: at dinner, start with house-baked toasted organic whole-grain baguette spread with walnut-spinach pesto and olive tapenade, stacked with grilled tomatoes over wilted watercress; meaty grilled marinated portobello mushroom with lemony basil pesto, with char-grilled spuds and seared autumnal greens; at brunch, a sensible sandwich of barbecued organic tofu with marinated tomato, lettuce and alfalfa sprouts on a grilled Portuguese pada bun, sided with house mesclun; wheat-free spelt, barley and berry-infused waffle topped with stewed seasonal fruit and organic maple syrup; scrambled Tofu Rancheros with halved ’n’ grilled new-potato home fries, rice-stuffed roasted tomato, mild salsa and guacamole and super house-baked toast; Thai-style soups like creamy sweet potato with coconut milk and Srirachi hot sauce. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of organic wine. Average Main $15/$10.

Vietnamese

Hanoi 3 Seasons 588 Gerrard E, at Broadview, 416-463-9940. First-time restaurateur and chef Hai Luke beats the odds to create a charming North Vietnamese cantina straight out of the box. Unique flavours, attentive if leisurely service – hey, he's got his 80-year-old parents working for him – and stylish-on-a-budget decor make this a bo�te to watch, especially if you go for tasty, aggressively spiced and inexpensively priced grub. Best: the starter known simply as Hen, minced baby clams stir-fried with wilted onion and fierce green chili in turmeric-tainted oil, scooped with baked black sesame rice crackers; dill-scented Do Bien Sao Rau Cai, steamed green-shelled New Zealand mussels, grilled tail-on shrimp and shards of faux pink crab kicked with turmeric, black pepper, ginger and lemongrass stalk over skinny rice stick, garnished with fresh coriander, Thai basil, minty rau ram, crisp iceberg lettuce and crushed peanuts; Bun Bo Hue ($6), the famous central Vietnam beef pho, a complex pairing of coriander, lemongrass, coconut, roasted chilies, fresh mint and sour tamarind; to finish, surprisingly non-stinky durian milk shakes. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average Main $8.

Open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday 11 am to 3 pm, and for dinner Tuesday to Saturday 5 to 9 pm. Closed Monday. Licensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN