Pride zone

Byzantium 499 Church, at Wellesley, 416-922-3859. A restaurant of two halves – one a copper-hued cocktail lounge, the other a Prada-green swanky boîte where, if planned carefully, the action on diners' plates beats the non-stop cruise-a-rama parading past the spot's seasonally open French doors. Reseve now for its swanky Pride Sunday brunch. Best: bistro-correct 8-ounce strip loin with frites; Provimi veal sided with corn pudding, crispy bacon, shallot confit, buttery haricots vert in Asian vinegar and honey reduction; grilled ostrich with garlic mash, crisp onion threads and today's veggies in Marsala-infused apple jus; smokey trout over a tangle of shaved fennel, apples, beets and radicchio in horseradish-kicked yogurt dressing; classic steamed mussels in lemongrass with parsnip frites. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open daily for dinner 5:30 to 11 pm. Bar open Sunday to Wednesday 5:30 pm to 1 am, Thursday to Saturday 5:30 pm to 2 am. Licensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. NNN  P

Debu Saha's Biryani House 25 Wellesley East, at Yonge, 416-927-9340. Once a tiny take-away dishing up inexpensive lunchtime noshes, this northern Indian spot moves into deluxe digs that match the richly sauced menu highlights. Yes, the previous joint's ridiculously low prices have nearly doubled (goodbye $5 thali), but chef Saha's serious step-up justifies the wallet damage. Best: Sultaani Chaap,four meaty lamb chops marinated in ginger, mint and lemon juice, then grilled, flambéed in rum and garnished with sweet sultanas and red pepper; tandoor-fired Calcutta Street-Style Chili Chicken in tomato peppercorn gravy; fiery Goan-style Seafood Perry Perry (think Portuguese piri-piri) with butterflied shrimp, calamari and mussels; veggie sides and mains like Lobia Aur Tomatar Salat (black-eyed peas and seeded tomato in a lemon-ginger vinaigrette) and Raspberry Matar (mildly cheesy paneer "raspberries" and garden peas in a rich, nutty sauce garnished with raisins and crisped onion threads). Complete meals for $30 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Open for $10.95 lunch buffet Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 3 pm, à la carte dinner Sunday to Thursday 5 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Licensed. Access: 16 steps at door, washrooms on same floor. NNNN  P

Focaccia 17 Hayden, at Yonge, 416-323-0179. This unassuming boîte on a back street near Bloor and Yonge belies the culinary creativity found within. Chef Sam Gassira has established himself as an equal to Toronto's chef elite. Throw in smooth service and alarmingly low prices considering the quality and watch the place explode. Best: to start, braised oxtail in rosemary jus alongside grilled sardine dressed with shaved black truffle; chèvre-topped onion galette over arugula and sliced pear in maple syrup vinaigrette; Provimi veal sweetbreads with lobster salad and de Puys lentils in citrus dressing; pan-seared and oven-roasted mains like venison chop with cod-stuffed ravioli in prune-licorice-red wine reduction; wild boar strip loin with broiled artichoke stuffed with spinach 'n' ricotta drizzled with sherry-kicked cranberry-wild rice jus; bison strip loin with carmelized rhubarb tart in spiced pistachio cream; pastry-free espresso cheesecake; superb house-baked breads. Complete dinners for $60 per person ($25 lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, and dinner 6 to 10 pm Tuesday to Saturday. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms upstairs. NNNNN

The Garage Sandwich Company 509 Church, at Wellesley, 416-929-7575. Down-home take-away decked out in auto-erotica – hubcaps, licence plates, fuzzy dice – offers substantial sandwiches, soups and stews that cater to those with an appetite for more than sex. There are a few seats inside, but most grab some grub to take to the park or back to the office. Best: spicy vegetarian three-bean chili; corn-studded veggie pie; two-fisted "theme" sandwiches like meatloaf-stuffed Paradise By The Dashboard Light or smoked meat meets sauerkraut in the Kraftwerk-inspired Auto Reubahn; cool summer soups like gazpacho and potato-fennel vichysoisse; Greg's ice cream, too. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and tip. Open Monday to Friday noon to 8 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon to 7 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, no washrooms. NNN

Matignon 51 St. Nicholas, at Inkerman, 416-921-9226. A down-to-earth neighbourhood boîte, this bistro serves hearty French fare that defies gastro trends. Check out the three-course $26.95 prix fixe dinner deal. Best: main-course fish soup with shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and salmon scented with saffron-tinged mayo, shaved Parmesan and garlic croutons; mussels steamed in white wine with a bowl of crisp frites; curried puréed vegetable soup rich with cream and butter; triple-tier gateau layered with chestnut mousse. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($25 lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, and for dinner Monday to Thursday 5 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: six steps at door, washrooms on second floor. NNN

OTHER NABES

Airport Lounge 492 College, at Palmerston, 416-921-3047. The owners of Ciao Edie – famed for its Here Kitty Kitty womyn's nights – continue the party at this 70s-inspired psychedelic space-age funkateria across the street. Unlike neighbouring it-spots, there's more on offer here than hyper-'tude. Chef Timothy Ng, a former Canoeist, launches tsunamis of taste with globally twisted tapas-style takes on Japanese tradition. Best: whatever he feels like. Seeing the menu as a frame, Ng paints with the day's catch, market finds and his customers' moods to create one-of-a-kind combos he calls with a wink Le Sashimi Fantastique and L'Inspiration Du Moment. Think mini-napoleons of sweet sliced scallop on a translucent bed of pink onion, scooped-out lemons piled with coral-hued flying fish roe, skewered rabbit yakitori and fresh figs in teriyaki glaze, tiny fiddleheads bound to rice by nori ribbons, strawberry tempura with melting chocolate heart and peppermint nip or Stilton ice cream. Complete dinners for $50 per person, including all taxes, tip and a martini. Open Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to 2 am. Closed Sunday, Monday. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. NNNN  P

Cafe 668 668 Dundas West, at Denison, 416-703-0668. Foodies of all sexualities and spiritualities flock to this modest west side Vietnamese vegetarian joint. Expect welcoming service, a relaxed vibe and a skilled kitchen that's not afraid of kick-ass spicing. Best: to start, 668 Salad with shredded deep-fried tofu, cucumber, carrot, peppers and grilled cashews, or cold rice-paper-wrapped Summer Rolls stuffed with slivers of deep-fried tofu, carrot, cellophane noodles, wood-ear and Thai basil; king mushrooms with faux sirloin over stir-fried mixed peppers, snow peas and baby corn; spicy tofu – large cubes of silky-centred deep-fried tofu in a chili-spiked sauce thick with julienned carrots, bell peppers and snow peas; vegetarian curry with tofu "pork," carrots, chewy Chinese mushrooms, cauliflower and napa cabbage in tasty yellow gravy; goofy but good deep-fried 'shrooms in batter dunked in sweet 'n' spicy lemongrass dip; for dessert, deep-fried bananas in yummy coconut cream. Complete dinners for $15 ($10 lunch) per person, including all taxes, tip and a ginger beer. Open Tuesday to Sunday noon to 10 pm. Closed Monday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: Two steps at door, washrooms on same floor. NNNN

Edward Levesque's Kitchen 1290 Queen East, at Hastings, 416-465-3600. Though it looks small from the street, this converted diner opens to a larger, funkier space in back. Owner/chef Levesque's lineup has a retro feel, too, updating classic comfort food with contemporary Asian spin. Popular with womyn's hockey teams for après-game weekend brunch. Best: though the menu changes monthly expect dishes like half a roasted Cornish hen marinated in bay leave, garlic and fresh oregano sided with green olive ratatouille and perfect basil mash; simple but superb house-made agnolotti stuffed with ricotta and minced Swiss chard in beurre noisette; tender calamari (!) with feta, cuke and niçoise olives; at brunch, Manchego Frico, an eggless cheese omelette wrapped around herbed home-fries and double-smoked pancetta or brie melted over multiple mushrooms on toasted brioche; daily lunch specials like shepherd's pie or macaroni 'n' cheese. Complete meals for $35 per person ($15 at lunch, $18 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glas of plonk. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 9 am to 4 pm, for dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6 to 10 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 3 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. NNNN

Spaha 66 Harbord, at Spadina, 416-260-6133. Club kids, fashionistas and U of T jocks and jockettes can't get enough of this happening spot's 90s decor, servers in sky-high platforms and basement lounge decked out in chocolate brown. Trendy or what? Opens early and continues till late, with an all-hours brunch-to-supper menu showcasing reasonably priced better-than-most modern takes on classic bistro. Best: deeply rich French onion soup with smoky Gruyère and Ace sourdough croutons paired with wine-steamed mussels in flavour-intense garlicky thyme-tomato broth; duck confit with caramelized pear 'n' apple slices alongside grease-free frites; slow-cooked veal chop, lamb sausage and ham cassoulet; super salade niçoise. Complete dinners for $40 per person ($20 lunch or brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open Monday to Thursday 7:30 am to midnight, Friday 7:30 am to 1 am, Sunday 10:30 am to midnight. Licensed. Access: barrier-free. NNN  P

Vavoom 472 Queen West, at Augusta, 416-603-0297. Attention glam fans. This stylish boîte has come a long way from its days as a greasy spoon. Now a chic eatery featuring contemporary fare with more flair than most and a cozy upfront lounge overlooking the Queen West drag, it's one of the street's more glamorous spaces. Best: Pommery mustard-roasted pork tenderloin in gorgonzola cream with bulghur pilaf; deconstructed vegetarian Mornay-sauced lasagna; top-notch Caesar salad of romaine hearts, grilled tomato, pancetta and shaved Grano Padano; weekday $9.95 lunch prix fixe includes soup, salad and mains like curried shrimp salad sandwich with curried aioli and frites or smoked salmon quesadilla with black bean pineapple salsa. Complete dinners for $45 per person ($22 lunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, and for dinner Monday to Saturday 5:30 to 11. Closed Sunday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. NNN

Winchester Cafe 161 Winchester, at Sumach, 416-924-4362. A former ice cream parlour, this pleasant parkside eatery recalls grandma's cottage, complete with doilies and antiques. Older Cabbagetown girls like to keep this très gay spot their secret, so don't tell anybody. A great spot to take your mother. Best: juicy thick chicken breast crusted with pecans, centre-cut striploin with peppery tomato-laced demi-glace and Dijon-sauced pork tenderloin with grilled apples – all sided with creamy garlic mash and al dente spring veggies; shredded crispy duck drizzled with citrus syrup over mesclun; brunch-only crab cakes finished with perfectly poached eggs alongside toasted English muffins, deep-fried crunchy home fries and greens; English toffee coffee cake with ice cream; short but budget-conscious wine list. Complete meals for $35 per person ($17 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday 5:30 to 10 pm. Brunch Sunday 10 am to 2 pm. Closed Monday, Tuesday, holidays. Licensed. Access: One step at door, washrooms on same floor. NNN  P