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NOW Magazine | April 28 - May 4, 2005, vol. 24 no. 35
Eat Cheap
Toronto's Top 25 Cheap Restos
When money�s tight, dining out in style doesn�t have to be a challenge. To help you stretch your appetite as well as your pocketbook, NOW�s first-ever guide to eating on the cheap counts down the top 25 inexpensive eateries in town, uncovers some soon-to-be hot new spots, revisits a few old faves and reveals some mouth-watering meal deals. Eat cheap and eat well. 1CAFE 668 668 Dundas West, at Casimir, 416-703-0668 Named NOW�s 2002 best new restaurant, this modestly decorated 20- seat storefront continues to deliver innovative pan-Asian vegetarian fare that�s not only healthful but damned tasty, too. Self-taught chef Ngoc Lam draws on her Southeast Asian heritage for a unique spin on Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese vegetarian cuisine that travels far beyond its Buddhist roots, especially when she gooses the garlic. And we doubt there�s a more hospitable front-of-house than Lam�s partner Hon Quach, whose gentle service helps make this casual caf� one of the most genuine kitchens around. Best: to start, 668 Salad with shredded deep-fried tofu, cucumber, carrot, peppers and grilled cashews, or cold rice-paper-wrapped Summer Rolls stuffed with slivers of deep-fried tofu, carrot, cellophane noodles, wood-ear and Thai basil; king mushrooms with faux sirloin over stir-fried mixed peppers, snow peas and baby corn in satay; Spicy Tofu � large cubes of silky-centred deep-fried tofu in a chili-spiked coconut cream thick with julienned carrots, bell peppers and snow peas; Vegetarian Curry with tofu �pork,� carrots, chewy Chinese mushrooms, cauliflower and nappa cabbage in tasty yellow gravy; goofy but good deep-fried �shrooms in batter, dunked in sweet �n� spicy lemongrass dip; for dessert, deep-fried bananas in yummy coconut cream. Complete dinners for $15 ($10 at lunch) per person, including all taxes, tip and a ginger beer. Average main $9. Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch 12:30 to 4 pm, dinner 6 to 9 pm. Saturday and Sunday 1:30 to 9 pm. Closed Monday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: two steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
2KING PALACE 105 Sherbourne, at Richmond, 416-306-1888 Neither royal nor palatial, this Pakistani take-away offers cabbies and club kids filling and fiery curries from modest digs in a downtown gas station. Ignore the signs advertising kebab �n�pop specials and point and take your chances with the extensive but unnamed East Indian comfort-food curries and aromatic stews on the steam table, some just weird � unidentified hoof in bitter gelatinous gravy? � but much of it downright delish. Bonus: open seven days a week till 5 am! Best: a near-tagine of gorgeous on-thebone lamb with chickpeas in spice-spiked tomato sauce; roti-style bones-and-all lamb in curried cream; cauliflower and potato garnished with fresh coriander stalks and mild green chili pods; al dente yellow lentils fired with green chili, or bitter kale with yellow split peas; moist basmati biryani rice flecked with curry leaf; for dessert, smooth rice pudding in sweet condensed milk, an ambrosial ambrosia dusted with crushed green pistachios. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and $1 bottled water. Average main $5. Open daily 10 am to 5 am. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrierfree. Rating: NNNNN
3BURRITO BOYZ 120 Peter, at Richmond West, 416-593-9191 Open less than a year, this tiny subterranean take-away in the heart of Clubland has inspired not only a copycat competitor but a soon-to-launch second and much larger operation at Adelaide and Simcoe, too. But fear not, hungry office drones and late-night party people � the Boyz� distinctive San Francisco Missionstyle burritos remain as uniquely remarkable as ever. Bonus: Friday and Saturday, the sombrero-outfitted joint stays open till 4:30 am! Best: hefty 10- and 7-inch grilled flour tortillas stuffed with tasty strips of grilled chicken, steak or battered halibut as well as creamy tomato rice, smooth refried beans, melted Monterrey Jack and optional submarine-shop toppings like spice-spiked mayo, guacamole, chopped iceberg lettuce, ripe tomato and hellaciously hot jalape�os; and if that�s not fiery enough, intensify the heat with the Boyz� off-the-Scoville-scale habanero hot sauce. Complete meals for $8, including all taxes, tip and a pop. Average main $5. Open Monday to Thursday 11:30 am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 4:30 am. Closed Sunday and holidays. Unlicensed. Access: six steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
4CHINESE TRADITIONAL BUNS 536 Dundas West, at Kensington, 416-299-9011 Featuring the street snacks of northeastern China, this subterranean snack shack downstairs from Sang Ho offers explosive light bites and full-course feasts. Bare-bones, fluorescent-lit, plasticon- the-table decor gives way to smiling chef Jin Linda Liu�s spectacular grub. Her fiery food doesn�t just pick you up, it levitates you, then knocks you across the room! Bonus: Liu�s new extended menu offers twice the pyrotechnics. Best: although listed as a drink, think of Jellied Bean Curd as an ethereal tofu soup slammed with chili oil, raw garlic, salty dried shrimp, crunchy preserved vegetable pickle and fresh coriander leaf; cold noodles lashed with nutty tahini-esque sesame paste, sweet black rice vinegar and crisp scallion rings; lengths of cool Asian eggplant doused with seame-oiled garlic chili; a Sino-salad of smoky sweet pork belly and contrasting cucumber crunch; sides like deceptive-looking assorted vegetables � cellophane threads, slivered carrot and daikon � in blow-your-head-off mustard oil, or sweet-and-sour radish with Thai chilies, or Tianjin-style steamed buns stuffed with pork, raw ginger and green onions, dipped in chili oil, vinegar and sweet garlic sauces. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and tip. Average main $5. Open daily 9:30 am to 10 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: 12 steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
5CHIPPY�S 893 Queen West, at Gore Vale, 416-866-7474, and 490 Bloor West, at Albany, 416-516-7776 Former Susur general manager John Lee and ex-Rosewood chef Neil Coutinho bring upscale fish and chips to Hogtown. Daily fresh fish delivery and hand-cut fries guaranteed both these tiny six-seat take-aways instant success. After recently opening an outpost in the Annex, the pair plan to expand as far afield as Collingwood and Whistler. Best: crisply deepfried cod, haddock, Atlantic salmon, prawns, cod cakes or scallops battered with Guinness-spiked Japanese panko breadcrumbs and sided with fabulous skin-on Yukon Gold frites double-fried in vegetable shortening, sprinkled with sea salt and malt vinegar, then dipped in Britauthentic curried gravy, mushy marrowfat peas or smooth garlicky mayo; sides of crunchy-correct red cabbage slaw; to drink, strong Caffe Brasiliano coffee and Coke in retro glass bottles. Complete meals for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and a soda. Average main $10. Queen open daily 11:30 am to 10 pm. Bloor open Sunday to Thursday 11:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to midnight. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access Queen: barrier-free, no washrooms. Access Bloor: one step at door, no washrooms. Rating: NNNNN
6CLAFOUTI 915 Queen West, at Strachan, 416-603-1935 Before sun-up each morning, ex-Parisian patissiers Boris Dosne and his brother Olivier Jensen-Reynaud start a fresh batch of what are arguably Toronto�s best croissants. No wonder there�s a lineup out front before the too-chic caf� has even opened. Cramped quarters and a few tiny tables guarantee a near-perpetual mob scene when there�s a total of three people in the joint. Beware the mid-morning stroller brigade. Best: the now-legendary house croissant, oversized and warm from the oven, available plain, almond-crusted or filled with chocolate or figs as well as stuffed and baked with asparagus and Swiss cheese or mushrooms and Asiago; superb croissant-wiches like mango �n� curried chicken, spectacular chicken breast salad in creamy house-made mayo, or smooth duck pistachio p�t� with red currant jelly; namesake Clafouti tarts such as wild berry, lychee in caramel, or sour cherry; a rotating roster of seasonal gourmet take-away like quartered roast chicken with curried sour cream; fresh bocconcini stack with fresh basil leaves and ripe Roma tomato; red-jacketed potato slaw with capers and slivered celery; comfort food-style mac �n� cheese. Complete meals for $10 per person, including all taxes and an Illy coffee. Average main $5. Open Tuesday to Saturday 8 am to 6 pm, Sunday 9 am to 5 pm. Closed Monday and holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: three steps at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNNN
7JUMBO EMPANADA 245 Augusta, at Baldwin, 416-977-0056 When Irene Morales first dished out her authentic Chilean street food 10 years ago, she did so from a vending cart located on a sidewalk in Kensington Market. Now that she�s moved indoors to modest digs a block away complete with awningcovered curbside patio, the savvy cook is Toronto�s undisputed queen of the Latin American turnover. Want proof? She supplies several local upmarket cantinas that simply heat them up and sell them at nearly twice the price. Best: two-fisted empanadas over-stuffed with either chicken (with red pepper, black olives and hard-boiled egg), beef (as above but with the addition of raisins) or veggies (spinach, red pepper, mushroom, onion and basil pesto); vegetarian tamale-esque humitas filled with mashed corn and onion, wrapped and tied with corn husk; take-home specialties like the house�s relish- like homemade hot sauce and caramelized sugar-crusted pastel de choco, fabulously sweet upside-down pie of cornmeal mush thick with chunked beef, chicken, black olives, hard-boiled egg and raisins. Complete dinners for $15 per person, including all taxes, tip and an imported beer. Average main $6. Open Monday to Saturday 9 am to 8 pm, Sunday 11 am to 5 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN
8ROSE CAF� 324 Broadview, at Gerrard East, 416-406-9906 Located in the prettiest building in Riverdale�s Chinatown East, this friendly east-side take-away with a few tables in the front window offers one of the best meal deals in town: super Saigon-style submarine sandwiches piled with veggies, Vietnamese cold cuts and incendiary chilies, all for a buck and a half, taxes included! Warning: occasional wafting cigarette smoke from the adjacent designated smoking room. Best: banh mi, lunch-sized sandwiches on flaky French roll stuffed with salty shredded chicken or pork, sweet lemongrass-scented Xiu Mai meatballs or slabs of dense tofu alongside sweetly pickled carrot and daikon strips, lengths of English cuke and the optional fire of minced Thai bird chilies; a large and extremely fresh selection of cellophanewrapped prefab meals of spring rolls, shredded Asian-style deli meats and salads; to finish, cr�me caramel-style flan or black-eyed peas in coconut cream. Complete meals for $5 per person, including all taxes, tip and a potent Vietnamese coffee. Average main $2. Open daily 8 am to 8 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNNN
9SOUL FOOD 582 Lansdowne, at Paxton, 647-438- 9730 Caribbean cooking generally comes in two versions � industrial strength and nuclear meltdown. But this recently renovated and surprisingly sophisticated neighbourhood noshery tenders St. Luciastyle takes on island-stylee country cooking done with a subtlety not generally found in the genre. A relaxed family vibe, low-volume tunes and incredibly inexpensive grub make this laid-back spot positively jump. Best: like all dinners, moist dry-rubbed jerk chicken comes sided with rice �n� peas rich with coconut cream and butter as well as delicate, creamy sweet slaw and caramelized fried plantain; slowcooked meaty oxtail and fall-from-thebone tender short ribs down-home style; equally succulent curried goat on the bone; for the vegetarian, firm organic tofu or split pea patties with stir-fried jerked veggies; for dessert, homemade apple pie � la mode. Complete meals for $18 per person, including all taxes, tip and a domestic beer. Average main $7. Open Tuesday to Friday noon to 10 pm, Saturday 1 to 10 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. Licensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, two steps to washroom on same floor. Rating: NNNN
10NEW YORK SUBWAY 520 Queen West, at Ryerson, 416-703-4496 Forget the Big Apple and write off the subs. This East Indian-inspired take-away from the family responsible for nearby Ghandi and Babur fuses mild-towild roti-like curried veggies with Mexican tortillas and calls them burritos. Then they add cheese to the wraps, grill �em and dub them California Rolls although they have nothing to do with sushi. And the only thing remotely NYC about the modest room is a poster of the Brooklyn Bridge. Best: so-called burritos stuffed with curried cauliflower mash, slightly bitter spinach or ground chicken, and grilled versions loaded with eggplant and spinach, satay chicken or jumbo-esque shrimp; quesadillas � real ones! � lined with cheese, ham, roast beef and/or onion; grilled curried potato subs studded with mustard seeds. Complete dinners for $10 per person ($7 at lunch), including all taxes. Average main $5. Open Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to midnight, Sunday noon to 10 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
11EAZY EATS 749 Broadview, at Danforth, 416-461-9576 With its comfy naugahyde booths, this delightfully retro diner on the fringe of Greek Town serves terrific Trinidadian- style home cooking augmented with Southern U.S. soul food accents. Kidfriendly heat-free menu, too. Best: don�t confuse Shake �n�Bake with Bake And Shark, an island-style version of fish and chips starring deep-fried shark fillet sided with bake, a flat circular baked-to-order bun that�s flaky perfection outside and delightfully doughy within; old-school beefy meat loaf sauced with pimento-flecked oxtail gravy alongside soul-food-style cheesy macaroni pie, spicy green beans and the sweet, creamy crunch of the tiny kitchen�s raisin-tossed coleslaw; incendiary house-made mustard hot sauce; follow with definitive bread pudding, an exceptionally rich finish that contrasts nicely with the preceding heat. Complete meals for $17 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Red Stripe. Average main $7. Open Monday to Saturday 8 am to 9 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
12MEZZETTA 681 St. Clair West, at Christie, 416-658-5687 Specializing in the Middle Eastern tapas known as mezzes, this once low-key take-away has evolved since it opened in the early 90s into a casual hacienda decked out with showbiz memorabilia. Bonus: live jazz Wednesdays from 9 pm. Double bonus: Monday dinner, every second dish is a buck (with a limit of 15), and Tuesday dinner they�re a toonie; weekdays at lunchtime all vegetarian items are $2. Warning: as the sign on the wall under a map of the Mediterranean Sea advises, �Refrain from touching the map!� Best: from the card of more than 40 mezzes, the house Evergreen Salad of romaine, spinach, coriander, parsley and walnuts in light vinegary vinaigrette; somewhat sour Mezziki � cubed cuke in yogurt, recalling Greek tzatziki and Indian raita; garlicky Egyptian Mush, an olive-oily pur�e of garlicky tomato, eggplant and green pepper suggesting Italy and Thailand; menu-described �exotic green beans� turn out to be crinkly Chinese long beans dusted with dill in lemon dressing; to finish, Cr�me Bavaria, vanilla custard laced with Triple Sec, topped with toasted almonds and chocolate syrup. Complete meals for $25 per person (lunch $12), including all taxes, tip and a domestic lager. Average main $4/$3. Open for lunch Monday to Friday noon to 2:30 pm, for dinner Monday to Thursday 5 to 10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 pm, Sunday 5 to 10 pm. Licensed. Access: four steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
13YUNG SING 22 Baldwin, at McCaul, 416-979-2832 Although some crowd around its small stand-up counter just inside the door, when weather permits most of this perennially popular plant-strewn Baldwin Village Chinese bakery�s customers make a beeline for the picnic tables on its makeshift curbside terrace out front. Bonus: weekend-only dim sum! Best: favourites since the 70s, baked buns stuffed with savouries like curried beef, sweet �n� sticky barbecued pork or chicken with crunchy bamboo shoots; braised bean-curd rolls loaded with minced seafood; earnest vegetarian spring rolls and chow mein; rice-papered wraps filled with shredded shrimp, snow peas, scallions and Chinese celery dressed with chopped garlic; on the weekend, translucent har gow modestly brimming with sizable shrimp or tiny pinched pork siu mai knotted with red chili. Complete meals for $5 per person, including all taxes, tip and a bottled juice. Average main $2. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11 am to 7 pm. Closed Monday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free, no washrooms. Rating: NNNN
14VIENNA HOME BAKERY 626 Queen West, at Markham, 416-703-7278 Though not as well known as her superstar-chef sibling Greg, Gay Couillard has an equally stellar pedigree. A consummate baker and true Queen Street original, she�s been turning out posh breakfast noshes and super south-of-France quiche-and-salad lunch combos from this retro spot for 20 years. But it�s her fruit-tastic pies and cassis-soaked cakes that cause the most fuss. Most mornings, and especially for weekend brunch, you�ll find a group out frontwaiting for the authentic 40s luncheonette to open. Best: Liptauer cheese sandwich on house-baked whole wheat toast; seasonal egg dishes like smooth ricotta and caramelized onion quiche with beet �n� feta salad; vegan black bean burritos; for dessert, old-fashioned sky-high apple pie, sticky date pudding and cranberry apple crumble; weekend-only poached Eggs Bombay on house toast with curried coconut-milk hollandaise and home fries. Complete meals for $10, including all taxes, tip and a coffee. Average main $6. Open Wednesday to Saturday 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday 10 am to 4 pm. Closed Monday, Tuesday and holidays. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free but narrow room, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
15BONJOUR BRIOCHE 812 Queen East, at Degrassi, 416-406-1250 Master baker Henri Feasson and partner Lori Feasson helm this long-running neighbourhood caf� famed for its allday continental breakfasts and definitive Gallic charm. Bonus: every Saturday and Sunday Feasson bakes his signature giant brioche. Best: from the ever-changing chalkboard lineup, proscuitto, Gorgonzola and arugula pesto quiche; specials like Trailer Park Chili or Torta Rustica paired with designer greens in basil vinaigrette and a house-baked baguette; Pain Bagnat � tuna, cucumber, sliced hard-boiled egg and mesclun on a milk bun, or barbecue turkey with tarragon mayo on multigrain; savoury flans such as tomato, basil and ch�vre or classic onion �n�Gruyere; for the sweet tooth, blueberry custard Brioche Royale, Tarte Tatin and collapsed flourless chocolate cake. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes and tip and a glass of wine. Average main $8. Open Tuesday to Friday 8 am to 5 pm, Saturday 8 am to 4 pm, Sunday 8 am to 3 pm. Closed Monday and holidays. Licensed. Cash only. Access: short step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
16JULES 147 Spadina, at Queen West, 416-348-8886 Though the corner of Queen and Spadina is the centre of the universe to some, until this clean-lined space opened in 2000 hipsters were at a loss for somewhere to eat � other than the Stem � that�s cheap, chic and unique. With its casual French comfort food card, is it any wonder this family-affair 30-seat caf� is a neighbourhood hit? Warning: since tables are at a premium, especially at lunch, show up early because the house doesn�t take reservations. Best: traditional thincrusted quiche � yes, quiche � thick with Swiss cheese, bacon �n� broccoli, or eggplant ratatouille and ch�vre as well as five other varieties; steamed mussels in cookbook- correct white wine alongside saltdusted frites and lemony greens; Steak Frites, herb-dusted flank steak with mesclun, veggies and more first-rate fries; foot-long sandwiches on Portuguese pada like Le Parisien with Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese and tart cornichons, or creamy Brie with tomato and greens, all with pur�ed soup, mesclun or fries; ovenroasted chicken breast with the same sides; for dessert, house-baked Tarte aux Pommes. Complete meals for $20 per person, including all taxes, tip and a glass of wine. Average main $10. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 9 pm, Saturday noon to 5 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNNN
17CALIFORNIA SANDWICHES 244 Claremont, at Treford, 416-603-3317; 1239 St. Clair West, at Via Italia, 416-651-9025; 1603 the Queensway, at the East Mall, 416-201-7392, and others The regular winner of NOW�s Readers Poll best sandwich category, this venerable family-run business is famous for its substantially portioned southern-Italian-style panini. Though the original Claremont location can be hard to find, keep an eye open for a slew of cabs, fire trucks and cop cars parked out front. Best: sizable old-school sandwiches ladled with sweet tomato sauce, caramelized onion and optional tongue-scorching hot peppers, cheese or fried mushrooms stuffed with grilled veal, chicken, meatballs or spicy Italian sausage. Complete meals for $8 per person, including all taxes, tip and a Brio. Average main $5. Claremont open Monday to Thursday 11 am to 10 pm, Friday 11 am to 11 pm, Sunday 11 am to 10 pm. Closed Sunday. St. Clair open Sunday to Thursday 10 am to 8 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am to 10 pm. Queensway open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access Claremont and St. Clair: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Access Queensway: barrier-free. Rating: NNNN
18BLACK CAMEL 4 Crescent, at Yonge, 416-929-7518 Quick pit stop for the Rosedale set and their help offers upscale takes on the Mid-west U.S. phenom known as loose meat sandwiches � long-marinated and slow-cooked Sloppy Joes. With its distinctive decor � marble countertops, blond laminate flooring, ceramic tile everywhere � and first-rate product, we smell franchise. Best: super-tender Black Angus beef brisket and pork shoulder in sweet house barbecue sauce, topped with caramelized onions on a hefty leak-proof kaiser; Cumbrae free-range chicken breast with basil pesto and roasted red bell pepper; roasted veggies with hummus for the non-carnivorous; monthly specials like slow-roasted flank steak with chipotle mayo and grilled rocket. Complete meals for $10, including all taxes, tip and a tea. Average sandwich $6. Open Monday to Friday 7 am to 6 pm (sandwiches from 11 am), Saturday 11 am to 6 pm. Closed Sunday. Unlicensed. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
19MORNING GLORY 457 King East, at Gilead Place, 416-703-4728 The unofficial offshoot of Aunties and Uncles offers a similar all-daybreakfast slash soup �n� sandwich lineup but focuses more on the first meal of the day. Quality ingredients and first-class attention to detail make this diminutive diner the biggest thing to hit Corktown since the Great Fire of 1904. Bonus: read all about MG�s daily specials � as well as the off-the-wall ruminations of its staff � at www.morningglory.ca/news.html. Best: on pre-proofed house-baked breads, regular sandwiches like sweet tuna salad with tart green apple on ciabatta or Bavarian-style Mennonite ham and sharp cheddar on chewy baguette, or one-offs such as curried chicken breast on Italian roll; Asian-inspired soups like spicy squash pur�e with crushed Szechuan peppercorns or complex lentil with lime; whopping omelettes wrapped around Havarti �n� leak or Brie paired with pear; more than competent cappuccino and retro raspberry crumble. Complete meals for $12 per person, including all taxes, tip and a fruit nectar. Average main $6. Open Thursday and Friday 8 am to 3 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am to 3 pm, Monday and Tuesday 8 am to 3 pm. Closed Wednesday. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: two steps at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
20MIMI�S 218 Bathurst, at Queen West, 416-703-6464 For the past 20 years, Mimi's has been dishing up grub for musicians, arty types and the occasional cowboy from this tiny diner located on the ground floor of the Oak Leaf Steam Baths. Warning: flexible hours � if she�s open, she�s open. Best: named for the Mexican Elvis impersonator, the El Vez omelette stuffed with Texas-style chili and maple syrup-infused cheddar cheese sided with herbed Yukon Gold hash browns fit for the King; the house BLT on fresh 10-grain toast layered with quality bacon, ripe tomato and designer lettuce; corned beef hash topped with two fried eggs; cheese blintzes, three light crepes stuffed with mild farmer�s cheese in a pool of homemade berry compote served with sour cream and honeydew melon; for the hung-over, freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice. Complete breakfasts for $10, including all taxes, tip and a juice. Average main $6. Open Thursday to Sunday 10 am to 3 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
21SALAD KING & LINDA 335 Yonge, at Gould, 416-971-7041 Those who haven�t visited this venerable Asian cafeteria in a while are in for a shock once they catch the King�s new clothes. Downstairs, the formerly dreary space has been replaced with a sleek, stainless- steel-appointed room complete with first-time-ever table service. Upstairs, a more formal room decked out in chic chinoiserie and named for the wife offers fancier fare. Fear not, pyrophiles, as most of the Thai card, complete with its notorious 20-chili scale, is exactly the same as it was pre-renovation and, better yet, just as inexpensive. Bonus: daily 10 per cent student discount 2 to 5 pm! Best: at both, cashew chicken with sweet peppers and steamed rice; kaffir-scented lime chicken with snow peas, red peppers and chilies; vegetarian fare like Golden Curry with deep-fried tofu and veggies in a mild Thai spice blend, or Evil Jungle Prince � Asian veg in garlic chili sauce; from Linda, Fish Curry Hot Pot, turbot fillet in turmerictinted coconut sauce thick with okra and plump tomato in rice-paper papillote, or steamed pomfret wrapped in banana leaf. Complete dinners for $20 per person ($30 at Linda), including all taxes, tip and a Thai beer. Average main $7/$12. Open Monday to Friday 11 am to 9:15 pm, Saturday noon to 9:15 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays . Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement, 18 steps to Linda on second floor. Rating: NNNN
22PITA BREAK 565 Yonge, atWellesley, 416-968-1032 For anyone who finds falafel awful, the Middle Eastern sandwich sold at this busy fast food outlet is worthy of a second look. The reason? Double-thickness pitas in a mouth-watering range of flavours so delish these awesome flatbreads are sold in gourmet shops across town. Best: falafel chickpea nuggets topped with sesame-rich tahini, sliced iceberg lettuce, red cabbage, sprouts and coriander hot sauce in pita pouches, served in baskets; other fillings � grilled chicken breast, smoked turkey, tuna with melted cheddar or scrambled egg salad; baked-in-house super-pitas sold in bulk include non-disintegrating pesto, black olive, jalape�o, sundried tomato, tomato basil, organic spelt, pumpernickel and breakfast raisin-andcinnamon. Complete dinners for $8 per person, including all taxes and tip. Average main $5. Open Monday to Friday 10:30 am to 9 pm, Saturday 11 am to 8 pm. Closed Sunday and holidays. Unlicensed. Access: barrier-free, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN
23CAFF� BRASILIANO 849 Dundas West, at Euclid, 416-603-6607 Since moving across the street into far fancier digs, this west-side Portuguese cafeteria cum coffee house has become more than just a secret known only by cabbies and folks who happen to live close by. Around since the 60s, the place hosts a multiculti mix of grumpy old men, coffee-swilling locals with toddlers in tow and early-morning club kids still up from the night before, all starting the day substantially with Old World home cookin�. Bonus: exclusively roasted Brazilian house espresso and Colombian coffee so good that the owners supply several of downtown�s most popular dining rooms. Best: the rotating list of weekday specials � veal chops on Monday, old-school veal �n� veggie stew Tuesday, Wednesday-only lasagna, Thursday�s pasta fagioli and Friday�s well-done roast beef � all sided with roasted potato, lemony chickpea salad and mixed Portuguese veggies doused in olive oil; daily sweet tomato-sauced roasted chicken with creamy potato salad and tasty pizza squares. Complete meals for $9, including all taxes, tip and a coffee. Average main $6. Open Monday to Friday 6 am to 11 pm, Saturday 6 am to 11 pm, Sunday 6 am to 4 pm. Unlicensed. Cash only. Access: barrier-free. Rating: NNN
24KHMER THAI 1018 St. Clair West, at Appleton, 416-654-0609 Forget pad thai. This gaudy west-side storefront specializes in subtly spiced Cambodian dishes that combine influences from neighbouring Vietnam and Thailand as well as more distant India, Portugal and France. Warning: difficult to manoeuvre and uncomfortable food court seating. Best: substantial soups that verge on multi-portion stews like hot and sour bamboo shoot, chicken and Asian eggplant in coral-hued coconut gravy, or Soup Delight, pineapple, tomato and Chinese celery in a clear, aromatic broth detonated with whispers of salty prahok fermented fish paste and galangal; Khmer Pancake, a rice flour omelette stuffed with gently spiced ground chicken, dunked into a complex sugary dip of chili, peanut and vinegar; tamarind-tanged Samlaw Khmer chicken with carrot, broccoli and bell pepper over jasmine rice; lassi-like green tea shakes. Complete dinners for $15 per person ($10 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a Canada Dry. Average main $7. Open Monday to Friday noon to 9 pm, Saturday noon to 10 pm, Sunday 5 to 9 pm. Unlicensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms on same floor. Rating: NNN
25ONE OF A KIND 746 Queen West, at Niagara, 416-203-2229 When owner/chef Raymond To launched his northern Italian bargainbasement noodle noshery back in 2001, it was dolled up with so much froufrou � doilies! chintz! � that it resembled some seaside tea room. Now it�s a near-elegant space dominated by freshly cut flowers and polished mahogany tables. Only the oversized dripping candle in the front window remains. And while spicing is still generally mild-mannered, portions are plentiful. Bonus: 10 per cent discount on takeout pasta. Best: squid-ink Indigo linguine with grilled calamari, ham, mushrooms and snow peas in white-wine cream; tricolour meat ravioli with peppers and onions in mild curry; saut�ed shrimps Newberg with buttery broccoli over basil linguine in a sherry-scented sauce; grilled New Zealand rack of lamb with asparagus, peppers and somewhat salty garlic mash; butterflied, then barbecued eel fillet over mesclun; Pernod-spiked scallops over fresh spinach and grilled portobello with balsamic. Complete meals for $30 per person ($20 at lunch), including all taxes, tip and a $6 glass of wine. Average main $10. Open Monday to Saturday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Sunday 11:30 to 10 pm. Closed holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNN
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